Annual pilgrimage to @thechairmanrestauranthk. So pleased for Danny Yip and the team on reclaiming the top slot on Asia’s 50 Best this year. This visit brought new dishes built around Yunnan ingredients: crinkly dried peppers that taste sweet rather than spicy, almost like dried tomatoes; mountain bush pepper berries with a scent of lemongrass; and the rare ganba mushroom, earthy with notes of leaves and leather. Yunnan meets Canton, mountain meets sea — a gargantuan steamed fish head blanketed in chilies and brightened with those pepper berries, mud crabs sautéed with chili and dried lemon, dried smoked pigeon, and clay pot rice laced with ganba mushroom. A single crab leg simply cooked and so perfect I longed for 10 more. Add in crispy-skinned eel, succulent roast pork, and of course a bite of flower crab in yellow wine sauce, and it’s easy to see why this place keeps earning the crown. Less