It has been almost 25 years since I first had Jason Atherton’s food , French in technique , British in identity, at @rowon45dubai it now relies almost entirely on the clarity of Japanese produce to complete the vision .
Your meal takes place over three rooms , the champagne lounge for snacks , the kitchen counter for the crux of the meal... More
It has been almost 25 years since I first had Jason Atherton’s food , French in technique , British in identity, at @rowon45dubai it now relies almost entirely on the clarity of Japanese produce to complete the vision .
Your meal takes place over three rooms , the champagne lounge for snacks , the kitchen counter for the crux of the meal before finally the chefs library for petit fours . It’s a nice journey and a clever trick as you are aware that there is new physical place you will soon be transported too .
There are some amazing highlights on the plate too .
A delicious smoky A5 Wagyu and smoked eel tart is the last amuse but it is quickly expanded upon and bettered by a superb Wagyu oxtail consommé, enriched in marmite , fragrant with long pepper and given texture with pickled turnip and crisp sweetbread .
The following course lifts the standard again , raw Amaebi , deliciously sweet and paired with , tomato dashi , finger lime and salted duck egg sabayon . Every mouthful of this dish pulls you in a different direction yet great harmony is the result .
Pierre Koffman’s squid tagliatelle is reimagined with sous vide scallops , gently shredded into strips , bathed with a sake and Shiso sauce and topped with fresh off the plane Bafun Uni .
The nostalgia hit of the night delivers in spades . A jacket potato with glass like skin made from Hokkaido potato aged for 540 days , soulful and humble , it stands proud next to curls of Otoro , a quenelle of kaluga and smoked cultured cream .
Kinki grilled on the binchotan was a slightly meagre portion size which didn’t let you enjoy the lusciousness of this premium fish , a shame as the crystal dumpling and the killer Cornish/singaporean chilli crab sauce were gorgeous .
Wagyu returned for the third time at the end for a rich finale , highlighted by a beef cheek char siu taro dumpling , but I think a different source protein would have been a nice note to play .
Colston Bassett Stilton tart was a lovely cheese course , fresh and slightly neutralised for those that struggle with blue cheese .
Two desserts - malt and miso / gold pineapple and some brilliant petit fours ended an excellent meal . Less
