The level of deliciousness and creativity I’ve been enjoying in plant-based restaurants that have opened in recent years, never ceases to amaze me.
Last week, it was at Seiva in Leça da Palmeira, near Porto, and the chef was @davidfjesus
Having worked under some of the world’s most awarded and respected chefs, such as @dabizdiverxo , @qiqedacosta or @restaurantfrantzen David has built a solid foundation before opening his own restaurant, Seiva.
Nothing was superfluous, too ‘effortful’, or of some show-offy technique.
Well thought-out, well-balanced combinations, such as the “corn and truffle dumplings with miso and laksa, spring onion, dashi and zucchini flower” and the “strawberry gazpacho with edamame and hoisin sauce”, right at the start of the menu.
Moments of comforting creaminess (complemented by a crunch of fried almonds at the bottom of the dish), in a perfect, slightly sweet Onions Shawanmushi, (I know there’s been a Shawanmushi ‘fever’ for a few years now that has invaded tasting menus everywhere, but this one was so good I can’t help but mention it, and this version doesn’t contain eggs, the texture is achieved with cashews, agar agar, miso, onion broth, and dashi), alternated with two plates of asparagus, some white (“Grilled white asparagus, coffee oil and Huancaina sauce”, where the spiciness of the ají amarillo comes through beautifully) and green ones (“Asparagus and seaweed “Brás” with green olive foam”, a subtle touch of spiciness and bitterness), revealing not only a mastery of technique but also a lot of intuition and good taste.
There’s more to it, but you’ll find it if go there.