Travelled more than 7 hours by train just for one lunch in Geneva. Reason? To meet the man who left quite an imprint on Chinese fine dining in Europe.
Frank Xu today helms the kitchen at Le Tsé Fung, La Réserve Geneva—the only Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in Switzerland.
But back in the day, Xu apprenticed in Cantonese cooking in Guangzhou at the age of 13; then spent more than 20 years with the Shangri-La group, during which time he opened the chain’s Shang Palace restaurant in Paris and became its first Executive Chef.
Eleven years ago he opened his current restaurant, which remains one of the hottest tickets in Geneva.
As I ate, I was reminded of how traditional Cantonese food that used European ingredients would have tasted like in the beginning—with all its modified flavours. It was like seeing the germ of our own Singapore cuisine, and its evolution over the generations. Intriguing.
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