Dinner at Tempura Kondo (てんぷら 近藤)

Dinner at Tempura Kondo (てんぷら 近藤)

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A visit to the renowned Tempura Kondo in Ginza.Located on the 9th floor of the Sakaguchi Building in Ginza 5-chome, Chef Fumio Kondo trained at the Hotel de Yama and was appointed head chef at the young age of 23. He opened Tempura Kondo in 1991 and is known for incorporating seasonal vegetables into traditional Edomae tempura, which primarily features seafood. The restaurant has earned two Michelin stars and is recognized for promoting the idea that "tempura is both a fried and steamed dish."This time, I had the privilege of being seated right in front of Chef Kondo as he prepared the tempura. The experience itself was a feast for the senses. The way he approached the hot pot, the delicate batter, and the precise timing of lifting the tempura from the oil felt like a performance.We started with yuba tofu in a light sauce. It had a gentle texture and was comforting in flavor. The following dishes—clam, duck breast, trout, kohada, and ankimo—were already impressively executed before we even got to the tempura. The duck breast had a rich sweetness and umami, while the kohada was firm and delicious with each bite. The ankimo was sweet and rich without being too heavy.For sashimi, we had lean and medium fatty tuna. The lean tuna was rich in flavor, while the medium fatty tuna had a perfect balance of fat. At this point, my palate felt refreshed.When it came to the tempura, we started with the shrimp heads. They were fragrant, light, and had a delightful crunch with a burst of umami. The shrimp that followed was cooked to perfection, not too firm, with a lingering sweetness. Kondo's tempura has an incredibly light batter that seems to trap the moisture and aroma of the ingredients inside. The official website states, "The essence of tempura is in its steaming nature," and I truly understood this after tasting.The vegetables were particularly impressive. The white asparagus released its sweetness and aroma with each bite. The Hokkaido peppers were fragrant, juicy, and refreshing. The Kamo eggplant, drizzled with a bit of soy sauce, combined a roasted flavor with a melting sweetness. The shiitake mushrooms were fragrant, while the myoga had a light crunch, allowing the flavors to shine.Among the seafood, the whiting was elegant, with a delicate umami that spread beautifully. The squid was sweet and subtly delicious. The sea urchin had a rich flavor that expanded in the mouth, and the unique cooking method was remarkable. Despite being fried, the ingredients retained their shape, enhancing their distinct profiles.And of course, Kondo is known for his vegetable tempura. The sweet potato had a refined sweetness, releasing a warm aroma. The onion overflowed with sweetness and fragrance, while the corn was sweet and fresh. The carrot offered a different kind of sweetness, showcasing how varied vegetables can be.The final dish, the tempura rice bowl, was incredibly delicious. The aroma of the sauce, the lightness of the batter, the umami of the ingredients, and the harmony with the rice created a satisfying finish without feeling heavy. Truly impressive.For dessert, we had watermelon, grapes, and melon, which provided a refreshing conclusion.Overall, I felt that the experience was "light" yet "deeply satisfying." Despite being a fried dish, the aftertaste was surprisingly clear. This time, sitting in front of Chef Kondo at his hot pot was a special experience. Every element—ingredients, batter, oil, cooking time, and residual heat—was meticulously calculated for each dish, allowing me to fully appreciate the excellence of this renowned restaurant.Indeed, Tempura Kondo is in a league of its own. Being able to have the chef prepare the dishes right in front of me was an extraordinary experience.

10 / 10