I visited PRIMO PASSO in Shintomi-cho.This is one of my favorite Italian restaurants that I have frequented many times.Despite being a relatively new establishment that opened in May 2023, it has already received high praise, including a Michelin star in the "Michelin Guide Tokyo."The chef, Tomoyuki Fujioka, was born into a family of sushi chefs but became captivated by pasta. He gained experience in various restaurants both domestically and internationally, and even served as the pasta station manager at the three-star restaurant "Quattro Passi" in Naples, Southern Italy.A significant feature of PRIMO PASSO is that it places pasta at the center of the meal, unlike typical Italian restaurants where pasta is served as part of the course.Previously, there were five pasta dishes included, but during my recent visit, there were four. Even so, each dish showcased a completely different character, featuring short pasta, cold dishes, and seafood.This time, I enjoyed a summer course that truly reflected the essence of PRIMO PASSO.It began with a corn soup, almond gelato, and corn jelly.The straightforward sweetness of the corn combined with the round, nutty aroma of the almond, and the texture of the jelly created a delightful contrast in temperature and texture, leaving a strong impression from the very first dish.Next was a fried pizza topped with four types of cheese, including ricotta and Parmigiano, along with corn jelly and prosciutto.The rich creaminess of the cheese paired beautifully with the saltiness of the prosciutto and the sweetness of the corn. The toasted flavor of the fried dough added to the overall deliciousness.The soup made from prosciutto, cheese, and corn cobs was comforting, with the creaminess of the cheese and the umami of the prosciutto blending together.One standout dish was the smoked bonito with straw, peach, seaweed, and water eggplant.The aroma of the smoked bonito was delightful, enhancing the inherent umami of the fish with a toasted flavor, complemented by the juicy sweetness of the peach. The freshness of the water eggplant and the texture of the seaweed added further complexity.While bonito and peach alone create a sweet and savory combination, the addition of water eggplant and seaweed introduced a delightful textural contrast, making it a refreshing summer dish.The orecchiette pasta was served with a sauce made from bell peppers and Manji chili peppers.The bell pepper sauce was incredibly delicious, showcasing the sweetness of the vegetables without being heavy. The sauce nestled into the ear-shaped orecchiette, releasing flavor with every bite. This relationship between the shape of the pasta and the sauce is characteristic of this restaurant.The fried knife fish was served with shiso leaves, parsley, and salmon roe sauce.The knife fish was tender and flaky, while the crisp texture and aroma of the shiso added a refreshing touch to the rich fish.The following cold pasta featured squid as the star ingredient, accompanied by clam and kombu broth.The pasta itself had a firm texture that paired well with the squid's rich sweetness. The clam and kombu broth seamlessly connected the dish, allowing the essence of Japanese dashi to blend naturally with the pasta.The risotto was made with cheese, butter, basil, asparagus, and surf clam.The rice retained a firm core, gradually absorbing the richness of the cheese and butter, while the saltiness and umami of the surf clam followed suit. The fresh aroma of the asparagus complemented the dish, achieving a rich yet balanced flavor that was not tiring to eat.For a palate cleanser, there was prosciutto, melon, and mint sorbet.The sweetness of the melon was balanced by the saltiness of the prosciutto, and the mint provided a refreshing finish.The main course featured charcoal-grilled sirloin from the Bimi cow.The fragrant aroma of charcoal was followed by a strong umami from the meat. The texture was not only tender but also had a satisfying presence when bitten into. The accompanying vegetables, such as fresh lotus root and watercress, kept the dish light until the end.Then, we returned to pasta.The pasta with sakura shrimp and shirasu was a dish that highlighted the umami of seafood. The toasted flavor of the sakura shrimp and the saltiness of the shirasu melded into the sauce, making it a personal favorite. Even towards the end of the course, I found myself wanting to take another bite.The charm of PRIMO PASSO lies not just in serving multiple pasta dishes.By combining different shapes and textures of pasta with seafood, vegetables, meat, and broth, each dish stands alone as a unique creation.Although the number of pasta dishes has decreased from five to four this time, the overall flow of the course, including fish, risotto, and meat dishes, was enjoyable.For dessert, there was panna cotta with mango and rum granita. The soft sweetness of the panna cotta was enhanced by the vibrant mango, and the cold granita added a refreshing touch.Additionally, there were grapes, warabi mochi, mascarpone, and brown sugar meringue. The juiciness of the grapes served as a base, layered with the soft texture of the warabi mochi and the richness of the mascarpone, leading to a clean finish.Finally, the homemade cream puff rounded off the long course with its gentle sweetness from the custard.Even though I have visited this restaurant many times, I still find it enjoyable every time.PRIMO PASSO has a fascinating quality that makes you wonder, "How will they incorporate the next seasonal ingredient into their pasta?"It’s not just about being satisfied after one meal; it makes you want to return with the changing seasons. In fact, I have visited multiple times myself.While pasta takes center stage, the experience goes beyond just pasta.This course reaffirmed the reasons why I want to keep coming back.
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