Dinner at Oniku Karyu

Dinner at Oniku Karyu

at Oniku Karyu on 22 August 2026
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I visited "Oniku Karyu" located in Ginza 1-chome.When I heard "meat kaiseki," I imagined a strong, meaty, fatty, and flavorful night. However, after taking a sip of the first dish, "Beef Broth Noodle with Matsutake, Yuzu, and Black Pepper," my perception completely changed."This is not a place to eat a lot of meat, but rather a restaurant that serves Japanese cuisine using meat."The translucent beef broth was astonishingly delicate, with the aroma of matsutake, yuzu, and just a hint of black pepper adding subtle contours. From the very first course, I was completely captivated.This course featured seasonal ingredients like matsutake, figs, ginkgo nuts, and grapes, allowing me to experience autumn a bit early. What stood out throughout the meal was the concept of "the ultimate subtraction." The richness of flavors, aromas, and accents seemed to be adjusted to the millimeter. Instead of adding something to make it luxurious, they left only what was necessary, allowing us to enjoy the best meat in its finest state.Particularly memorable were the signature dishes: "Nigiri Sushi," "Katsu Sandwich," and "Stew."The nigiri sushi looked beautifully marbled, yet it was surprisingly light when I took a bite. The tender, thick meat melted with the vinegared rice, leaving only the sweetness of the fat to disappear. It was a moment that made me realize, "Good meat has a refined quality even in its fat."The katsu sandwich was incredibly tender, allowing my teeth to glide through despite its thickness. The bread, coating, and sauce were all present, yet the meat remained the star until the end. I was convinced when I heard that the type of bread, cooking level, coating, and secret seasonings were all finely adjusted.The stew was rich and creamy yet somehow not heavy. It was a dish that perfectly embodied the phrase "a stew made by a meat kaiseki restaurant," distinct from Western-style beef stew.What surprised me the most was that even after enjoying so much meat, my stomach never felt heavy.The meat, primarily Tajima beef, was astonishingly tender, almost cutting with chopsticks, yet it was more than just "soft" and "sweet fat." The seasonal ingredients centered around matsutake made each subsequent bite feel fresh.Even while continuously eating meat, I never felt fatigued by it. This might be the brilliance of Karyu.For drinks, I had "ROCOCO Tokyo WHITE." As someone who isn't fond of beer, this is one of the few beers I find myself wanting to order. Its bitterness is mild, with a smooth mouthfeel and a touch of elegance, pairing well with the delicate dishes.The restaurant has a serene atmosphere that is strangely not stiff. It allows you to focus on savoring the food without feeling overly tense. I believe this exquisite ambiance is thanks to the attentive service from Mr. Katayanagi and the staff, who pay attention to every detail with kindness and care.After finishing my meal, I realized that it was not just about "eating delicious meat," but rather an evening spent savoring "Japanese cuisine made with Wagyu."Despite being a meat kaiseki, what lingered in my memory was not the "strength of the meat" but rather its "delicacy." I look forward to returning when the seasons change to experience different seasonal combinations with the meat. And I will definitely come back on nights when I simply want to enjoy truly delicious meat.

10 / 10