A Night Dedicated to the Art of Subtraction in CuisineRather than layering elements on each plate, this restaurant focuses on stripping away the unnecessary to highlight the ingredients themselves. Throughout the course, the chef's philosophy and aesthetic sensibility were clearly conveyed.Starting with an edamame soup, followed by foie gras toast, a dish featuring enoki mushrooms styled like somen noodles, and a mushroom chawanmushi, each dish was astonishingly simple in composition. Black truffle was used sparingly, ensuring that its aroma remained intact with minimal heating, emphasizing the importance of knowing when to stop rather than just adding more.The turnip was used in its entirety, including the leaves, and the sweetfish was served in a clear broth. I was able to request a refill of the sweetfish soup. The risotto made with rice from Kochi Prefecture was finished with just water and salt, intentionally leaving a firm texture in the grains. The chef mentioned that this firmness reflects his personal taste and aesthetic. It’s not just about technique; the chef's own perspective on what constitutes completion is evident in every moment.The shamo chicken made its appearance at the end as chicken ramen. Without any unnecessary toppings, the noodles and broth straightforwardly expressed the umami of the chicken. There was also a playful dish called "KFP," which featured pigeon served in a KFC bucket. The chef reportedly buys a 10-piece bucket from KFC every two weeks and reuses the actual bucket. The cuisine is stoic, yet it doesn’t feel stiff.The Miyazaki Prefecture's Miran beef was paired with almost nothing but salt. The cooking was beautifully executed, and the chef's confidence in the ingredients was evident on the plate.For dessert, there was ice cream and a large pudding cut from a mold. The pudding could also be refilled, and I opted for a second serving. Throughout, the chef maintained a consistent approach of presenting familiar dishes in their best form without relying on complex decorations.This course was not merely about having fewer items or elements; it concealed complex decisions and work in the kitchen, leaving only what was most necessary for the guests. It was a course that conveyed not only flavor but also the chef's philosophy, truly embodying the art of subtraction in cuisine.
We use cookies on this site to enhance your user experience.
