Dinner at Mikawa Zezankyo (みかわ 是山居)

Dinner at Mikawa Zezankyo (みかわ 是山居)

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2026/6/14 Mikawa Zezankyo, Monzen-Nakacho An exceptionally refined and mature flavor. Delicious.About an 8-minute walk from Monzen-Nakacho Station, this entire building is dedicated to tempura. Upon entering the restaurant, I was guided to the waiting room on the 3rd floor, as everything starts at 12 PM. After taking off my shoes, I was greeted by a row of modern ceramic bowls by contemporary artists. The back area features a tea room, with an oval-shaped design that exudes luxury and a soft atmosphere.At noon, I was led to the counter on the first floor. After removing my shoes, I stepped up to a beautifully maintained lacquered space that feels remarkably clean and calm, despite being in operation for 50 years. I was seated at the end of the counter, where I could see the frying process clearly. The appetizers were already prepared, beautifully plated. The drink menu was simple, offering bottled beer, wine, Japanese sake, and non-alcoholic options, but no shochu. I ordered a beer while watching the course begin. The 80-year-old chef skillfully dropped shrimp into the hot oil. While waiting, I sampled the dipping sauce with grated Japanese radish, which had a slight sweetness but also an exquisite umami flavor.[Omitted]The fried tempura exudes elegance. The batter is slightly moist yet crispy, and the shrimp is packed with concentrated flavor. A gentle sweetness spreads across the palate. The cooking technique is outstanding.The overall structure of the course is intriguing, starting with larger items and finishing with vegetables. Tempura is simple, yet the flavor varies greatly depending on who fries it. The selection of alcoholic beverages is refreshingly straightforward and classical. This time, I had Kaizen sake.I was extremely satisfied with the flavors. I must return to experience the seasonal changes while the 80-year-old chef is still around.Memo:Appetizers 2 Shrimp Shrimp Heads Kisu (Japanese whiting) Squid Clear Soup with Yuba and Shrimp Myoga (Japanese ginger) Shiso Sea Urchin Young Sweetfish with Wasabi Megochi (a type of fish) Anago (conger eel) Asparagus, Shiitake Mushrooms, Sweet Potato, Eggplant Tempura Rice Bowl or Tempura Tea.

9 / 10