Dinner at Den (傳)

Dinner at Den (傳)

at Den (傳) on 27 May 2026
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Den has always been in my mind as a pioneer of hard-to-book restaurants, alongside the famous "Sanpi Ryoron" in Ebisu about ten years ago. Back then, I wasn't particularly focused on making a reservation, just thinking it would be nice to visit someday. Recently, however, I decided to seriously explore dining options and managed to visit through a cancellation slot.I have been to several Michelin-starred restaurants, but this is the first two-star establishment I've encountered with such a relaxed atmosphere. Interestingly, the entrance still displays the sign of the previous restaurant, and the only indication that it is "Den" is a small sticker on the doorknob.Upon entering, I was greeted by various decorative objects and numerous handwritten signs adorning the walls. It felt like a whimsical secret hideaway. Yet, strangely enough, it maintained an air of elegance, as if every object belonged exactly where it was placed.The meal began with a monaka (wafer) packaged with Den's sticker, filled with foie gras, berry jam, and crunchy takuan (pickled daikon). This dish encapsulated what Den is all about—an innovative blend of Japanese and Western flavors, playfulness, and meticulousness.Next was chawanmushi (savory egg custard), which contained yuba (tofu skin) and béchamel sauce, topped with a sweet soy sauce reminiscent of mitarashi. It had a rich flavor, offering a unique originality unlike any chawanmushi I had tasted before.The third dish was "Dentucky," a playful take on KFC, presented in a package labeled "DFC". Inside were crispy fried chicken wings filled with chewy glutinous rice and tender edamame. This dish was impressively crafted. Interestingly, I heard that an actual KFC employee visited and enjoyed it, so it might even be unofficially endorsed!This Dentucky serves the role of "oshinogi" in Japanese cuisine, a small dish to stave off hunger. It was presented as if the chef hurriedly prepared it to satisfy the guests' appetites. The back of the box featured a list of the chef's favorite restaurants, a charming touch.Following this were sashimi of kinmedai (red snapper) and fried fish called sugi, along with a salad. This salad was inspired by the Japanese dish of nimono (simmered vegetables), where each vegetable was separately prepared and served. Each leaf had a distinct flavor, making it completely different from a typical salad. Yet, it wasn't quite nimono either. I found this salad to be the most memorable dish. Although it was a Western-style salad, the seasoning brought out the essence of Japanese flavors, showcasing the ingredients' natural umami. It was truly impressive.Afterward, we enjoyed a simmered dish, clay pot rice, miso soup, and dessert to conclude the meal. Each dish had a robust flavor, enhancing the umami elements of Japanese cuisine.Overall, Den is casual, humorous, and innovative, yet firmly rooted in the essence of Japanese cuisine. The service was excellent, creating a friendly atmosphere without any pressure or tension for the guests. It was clear why it attracts many international visitors and has earned two Michelin stars. I sensed that the chef still has many creative ideas and adventurous spirits hidden away, and I feel like I've only scratched the surface. I definitely want to return!

8 / 10