Chef Kobayashi, who grew up in a family of part-time farmers, opened this restaurant in his hometown in 1998. For over 20 years, he has been experimenting and gradually developing a unique business model. Starting from July 2025, the restaurant will transition to a menu that does not include meat or fish.I finally had the chance to visit this restaurant that I had long wanted to try. Since the cooking and service are handled by the couple, the level of service may not match that of fine dining, but the warm atmosphere created by everyone gathering around a large table is truly inviting. I initially thought the focus would be on the philosophy behind the dishes, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that each plate was delicious in its own right. I usually refrain from reviewing anything other than desserts, but I felt compelled to share my experience.After the meal, the chef kindly took me on a tour of the garden.When we hear "zucchini" or "fava beans," we often picture the standardized versions we see in supermarkets. The reason everyone can imagine the same thing is that these vegetables are properly standardized. Standardization allows for the handling of these vegetables, enabling distribution and recipe creation. This is why we can enjoy such a rich diet at a low cost. In the capitalist system, standardization is a crucial starting point. However, for the plants themselves, this is merely a compressed form of description. The beans referred to as "immature" have their own unique flavors, and the buds of flowers before they bloom possess their own beauty. I believe that the essence of these plants encompasses all of this.It was a wonderful day, and I felt that experiencing such a direct connection with the essence of food, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, was truly special.---◇ Cracker with Beans A dish featuring whole grain crackers paired with pea and green bean cream sauce. The fresh beans garnishing the plate are not just for decoration; the purple ones are Egyptian variety peas, and the small ones are chickpeas. The popping beans are subtly sweet and serve as a delightful amuse-bouche that prepares the palate for the upcoming dishes.◇ Round Zucchini with Basil 〇 A pizza with a crispy, slightly tangy crust topped with juicy round zucchini. The aroma of Parmigiano and a strong saltiness tie the flavors together. The fragrance of basil enhances the sweetness of the crust and zucchini, creating a harmonious taste that lingers pleasantly in the mouth. While the flavor is straightforward, it leaves a lasting impression, inviting you into the course.◇ Artichoke and Jerusalem Artichoke ◎ A dish featuring artichokes hidden in a sweet Jerusalem artichoke soup. The soup has a slightly sweet base with a deep, roasted aroma reminiscent of coffee, complemented by dairy. The varying crispness of the chips adds an accent, while the sweetness of the artichoke builds in layers. The combination of bitterness, sweetness, and acidity from these two diverse ingredients creates a balance of delicacy and strength. This was one of my favorite dishes.Jerusalem artichoke, biologically related to the sunflower family, shares some aromatic and flavor similarities with artichokes, hence its name. Though not explained, there seems to be a playful wordplay hidden within.◇ Tear Beans and Bell Pepper ◎ A dish combining various small beans with bell pepper soup. I was thrilled to finally try this dish that I had hoped to taste. The first impact of aroma is overwhelmingly bell pepper, with a unique scent that blends bitterness and spiciness, stimulating the appetite. The cold, smooth soup brings a deep complexity to the palate. As you chew, the tear beans burst in your mouth, releasing their slightly green aroma and natural sweetness. Each bean has a slightly different texture and flavor, adding depth without becoming monotonous, enhancing the complexity of the bell pepper. The aftertaste is rounded off by spicy olive oil. While market beans aim for a starchy appearance, experiencing beans as a plant with depth reveals surprising flavor possibilities. Although the beans from the garden are already large, the tear beans were a desired ingredient, and I was delighted to have them included at the last minute. This dish, along with its concept, was one of my top favorites.◇ Lettuce and Fava Beans A dish featuring crisp and juicy lettuce coated in pureed fava beans. To prevent it from becoming too monotonous, various spices like cilantro flowers, bean leaves, and pickled cucumbers add accents. Rather than focusing on the cheese-like aroma of fava beans, this dish showcases their freshness and soft sweetness, creating a remarkable combination that never feels lacking.◇ Mugwort, Koshi Fern, and Udo 〇 A dish featuring mugwort beignets paired with mountain vegetables. The sauce is made from dashi prepared with tea and enoki mushrooms. The slightly chewy, salty beignet absorbs the somewhat peculiar flavors of udo and koshi fern. The sweetness of the wheat in the beignet and the oil provide a satisfying experience even without meat or fish. The sauce is quite excellent, offering a sustained depth that complements each ingredient without being overpowering.◇ Bamboo Shoot with Comté Cheese A dish featuring tender bamboo shoots paired with a Comté cheese sauce. The slightly grainy sauce blends well with the moisture of the bamboo shoots. This dish is quite straightforward compared to the others.◇ Potato and Round Zucchini A dish featuring roasted potatoes and round zucchini, combined with various spices, fromage blanc, and a sweet sauce made from onions and dark beer. While the flavor is relatively straightforward, the small round zucchini retains its firmness and juiciness despite the cooking, evoking a sense of vitality akin to a bud before it fully blooms.◇ Flower Zucchini, Beans, and Yam A refreshing dish that serves as a palate cleanser. The textures of bean puree and yam provide enjoyable accents.◇ Asparagus and Green Onion Tender asparagus with a crisp texture is accented by the strength of green onions, served with a tangy mustard sauce. The whipped garlic chives sauce adds a light aroma, enhancing the overall strength of the dish. While I didn’t feel a chemical reaction in their pairing, it was strangely satisfying.◇ Zucchini and Grains ◎ Along with the tear beans, this was another memorable dish of the day. This dish centers around cooked beans and grains. It is paired with a simple yogurt sauce and a slightly sweet sauce for the beans. When I asked the chef about the sauce, he revealed it was made from white beans and caramelized onions. The caramelized onions emphasize the earthy strength of the beans, while the zucchini flowers are infused with a smoky aroma, creating a satisfying conclusion to the meal. This dish harmonizes the flavors with the acidity of the yogurt. While many dishes in today’s course created a sense of lightness with herbs, this one stood out by balancing strong elements against each other. Any doubts I had about the absence of meat or fish were completely dispelled by this final dish. I loved it.◇ Pomelo and Elderflower A light dish focused on aroma, serving as a palate cleanser. What a delight!◇ Kawachi Bankan 〇 A dish featuring Kawachi bankan compote, sheep's milk ice cream, and candied violet flowers. The bankan is cooked while retaining a generous amount of the white pith between the skin and flesh, providing a pleasant bitterness and fluffy texture. The light sweetness of the ice cream complements the acidity of the bankan, creating a delightful harmony.◇ Herbal Tea and Sweets To finish, I chose fresh herbal tea. Enjoying this in the lingering moments was a blissful experience.
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