Shimazu, located in Shirokane-Takanawa, is a renowned sushi restaurant that boasts a Michelin star and a Tabelog Gold rating, making it a must-visit for sushi lovers. The restaurant is situated in a quiet corner, slightly removed from the hustle and bustle of the station, embodying the serene atmosphere characteristic of Shirokane. The moment I saw the golden sign of the restaurant, I felt both my posture and my wallet tighten in anticipation.I visited for lunch, where Chef Baba, the second in command, was in charge. The interior features a pristine white wood counter, creating a refined atmosphere. The movements of the chefs, centered around the head chef, are calm and efficient, naturally lowering the volume of conversation among guests. Unlike the excessive tension often found in high-end sushi restaurants, there is a wonderful balance of elegance and warmth in the air.The meal began with junsai (water shield) and mozuku (seaweed). The refreshing texture is complemented by a gentle dashi broth. The amadai (sweetfish) from Amakusa has a richness that cannot be described as merely mild; its umami slowly unfolds with each bite. The octopus from Kurihama is impressively firm and sweet. The soft roe of the fugu (pufferfish) is rich yet refined, while the fried mehikari (shiny fish) is aromatic and savory, perfectly pairing with the drinks.I started with a glass of white wine, then moved on to a highball made with Hakushu and Yamazaki. The Burgundy Chardonnay in the photo pairs beautifully with the delicate fats of the sushi, preserving the transparency of the white fish and squid. This modern approach of not solely relying on sake is quite refreshing.The nigiri selection was impressive, featuring chairo maruhata, isaki, tokishirazu, shiro ika, shima aji, akagai, kasugodai, chutoro, akami-zuke, otoro, shima ebi marinated in kombu, bafun uni, anago, and tamago. The rice is beautifully textured, with a gentle acidity. It enhances the aroma of the toppings while creating a harmonious melt-in-your-mouth experience.The standout was the shiro ika. The delicate knife work allows its sticky sweetness to cling to the rice. The tokishirazu has a vibrant orange flesh that glistens, with a refined sweetness from the fat. The chutoro and otoro showcase a beautiful gradient of fat, while the akami-zuke has a perfect balance of iron-rich umami and marinade aroma. The akagai is fragrant, and the shima aji leaves a pleasant aftertaste without any bitterness. The shima ebi marinated in kombu combines sweetness with umami, and the bafun uni is elevated by the aroma of nori, achieving a high level of perfection. The anago is light and flaky, while the tamago is smooth like castella, beautifully finishing the meal.I also ordered additional kanpyo maki (dried gourd rolls) and akagai with cucumber rolls. The sweet and savory flavor of the kanpyo and the aroma of the nori, along with the crunchy texture of the cucumber rolls, create a dangerously delightful ending, even when one is full. The final touches of ice cream, tea, and even the portrait of the head chef on the teacup add to the enjoyment of the experience.Rather than relying on flashy presentations, everything—ingredients, knife skills, temperature, nigiri, and the ambiance—comes together quietly. This truly embodies the luxury achieved through subtraction rather than addition. During lunch in Shirokane-Takanawa, I was treated to a remarkable sushi experience. While my wallet may feel the impact of a star-rated meal, my palate is left with an even greater sense of happiness.
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