Dinner at ESqUISSE (エスキス)

Dinner at ESqUISSE (エスキス)

at ESqUISSE (エスキス) on 26 August 2026
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Each dish is accompanied by evocative words like "Nudité (Naked)" and "Pulsation (Pulse)" that express scenes and emotions. In a room in Ginza, I experienced an eight-course meal titled "Shosho" while gazing out at the view beyond the window.The "Naked" dish features eggplant shaped like a vessel, encasing the umami of squid and kombu kelp within. The dish's clean appearance reflects its temperature perfectly.The "Pulse" is a bite-sized portion of sea bream wrapped around tomato, with the refreshing aroma of ribesh enhancing the overall experience.The star of the dish featuring the surf clam is complemented by summer beans and herbs from Noto, delivering a refreshing sensation as promised by its name."Candlelight" showcases the sweetness of corn paired with the elasticity of octopus, while "Waves" presents sweet sea bream with crispy scales, prepared in a Matsukasa style. The combination of the fragrant skin with Manji peppers and red shiso is intricate and well thought out.The meat dish, titled "Resonance," features the classic pairing of duck with figs, showcasing meticulous cooking that is evident at first glance.For dessert, there are two plates: "Intuition" (tonka bean, honey, hibiscus) and "Enjoyment" (coconut, coriander, sudachi). Every dish, even the final bite-sized sweet, is crafted with intention, conveying its purpose even when the names are withheld. This is truly a remarkable restaurant.

8 / 10