On the first day of my summer trip to Niigata, I aimed for Kappou Shintaku in Murakami. This was one of the first restaurants I decided on for my itinerary. Not only does it have great reviews on Tabelog, but it has also received high praise from the Niigata Gastronomy Award and Gault & Millau. If you're visiting Niigata for its culinary offerings, this place is definitely a top choice. However, the location of Murakami, which takes about an hour from Niigata, poses a challenge, making it somewhat difficult to visit. On this day, I decided to stay overnight in Murakami city. Taking a taxi from my accommodation, the driver shared insights about the town, mentioning that it has been home to many traditional restaurants for a long time. As I looked around, I noticed that Murakami still retains much of its historical charm, making it a picturesque place.After passing through the noren (curtain), I was guided to my seat. For drinks, I opted for the "Omakase" Japanese sake pairing (9 varieties), which seemed like a great choice.1. Appetizer: Chilled Chawanmushi with Edamame and Kijihata2. Soup: Mahata with Okahijiki3. Sashimi (1): Ara4. Koya Tofu5. Sashimi (2): Nodoguro with Nagaimo6. Grilled Eggplant (with Bonito Flakes)7. Rice Dish: Ayu8. Main Plate: Wild Boar with Tsurumurasaki9. Enkai10. Grilled Dish: Sweet Sea Bream Matsukasa-yaki11. Sweet Sea Bream Sashimi with Grated Cucumber12. Yuugao, Wild Boar, Tomato, and Green Beans13. Meal (1): Pressed Sushi with Hiramasu14. Meal (2): Rice + Side Dishes: Onikasago, Kodai Nukazuke, Fried Wild Boar Cracklings, and Pickled Eggplant15. Dessert: Corn Ice Cream(Alcohol: numbers correspond to the dishes)1. Shimoharitsuru Junmai Ginjo Namachozo, 2. Musou DUSK, 3. Ogami, 5. Kamo Nishiki Hahata Sake Gesshaku 2025 BY, 7. Oshiroyama Tokubetsu Honjozo, 8. Musou Gensetsu, 10. Koshi no Kanbai Junmai Daiginjo FROM NIIGATA 2023, 11. Ayu Masamune Junmai Sake, 12. Abe Blue, 13. Shimoharitsuru Murakami Festival Yatai Event.The first dish, the "Kijihata" served as an appetizer, captivated me with its rich flavor that emerged with each bite, showcasing the deliciousness and texture of the fish. From there, a series of dishes highlighted the potential of Niigata and Murakami's seafood. The meat was wild boar. I was impressed when the chef mentioned, "I thought we might not need to use a 1kg Nodoguro lately, but this one is a hefty 1.5kg." The second sashimi dish, the Nodoguro, was served with finely chopped Nagaimo on top. Not only was the skin lightly grilled, but there was also an extra touch added. With so many dishes, it’s hard to list them all, but each one was incredibly delicious. Among them, the grilled Ayu mixed with rice (dish 7), the fluffy and subtly flavored Sweet Sea Bream Matsukasa-yaki (dish 10), and the pressed sushi with Hiramasu, enhanced by the pickled zucchini (dish 12), were my top three of the day. The side dishes served with rice were all exquisite and refined.Even though the term "pairing" wasn’t used, the Japanese sake from Niigata served with each dish beautifully complemented the food. The sake itself was excellent, and the pairings were thoughtfully considered. The chef, who prepared and plated the dishes while engaging with the guests, had a charming personality, and the woman who provided service, presumably his wife, had a warm and pleasant demeanor. Overall, it felt like a restaurant that shone brightly like a beacon in the darkness.As I finished my meal, I found myself contemplating when I would return next. I asked for recommendations on the best season to visit, and they mentioned that any time is good, but the salmon season around November offers a different experience. I see. Since my plans for this autumn are already nearly full, I’ll aim to revisit next autumn. (Though I’d love to come back before then!)
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