This auberge, renovated from a closed elementary school due to depopulation, offers a unique experience where you can enjoy the atmosphere of the satoyama along with refined cuisine. Located in Kan'non-shita, Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture, which has been recognized as a Japanese heritage site, it is adjacent to the sake brewery of Naohiko Noguchi, known as the "God of Sake Brewing."The chef, Shota Itoi, has honed his skills at the three-star restaurant "Auberge de l'Ill" in Alsace and has been selected for Forbes' "30 UNDER 30" Asia in the Arts category. He has moved to this area and creates dishes that reflect the local ingredients and environment of Kan'non-shita.This time, I enjoyed the lunch degustation course. The menu featured seasonal ingredients that can only be tasted here, including wild boar, bear, lamb, firefly squid, bay shell, bamboo shoots, mountain vegetables, and wild herbs, conveying a sense of the season even before tasting.The first dish was very impressive. Served in a glass bowl, it featured wild boar bacon paired with red turnips, herbs, and mountain vegetables. The vibrant color of the red turnips and the fresh green of the mountain vegetables were beautiful, resembling a snapshot of the satoyama landscape. The umami of the wild boar bacon added a wild essence to the dish, drawing me in right from the start of the course.Next, a pizza was presented on a leaf. The fragrant baked crust was topped with cheese, mountain vegetables, and herbs, making it enjoyable to eat by hand. It was more than just a pizza; it was a dish that allowed you to savor the aromas and textures found in nature.In a warm bowl, there was bear meat along with bamboo shoots. The bear meat had a texture reminiscent of beef but with a unique aroma. The combination of the bamboo's fragrance and the umami of the broth was outstanding.A dish featuring asparagus and Japanese radish was beautifully presented with a white sauce and scattered purple flowers. The sweetness and freshness of the vegetables combined with the creaminess of the sauce created a light yet memorable flavor.The main dish was lamb. It was sourced from sheep that are carefully raised and studied at Ishikawa Prefectural University, with only six being provided each year, making it quite rare. The cooking was superb, with no gamey taste, and the meat was both tender and resilient. The umami expanded with each bite, making it one of the most memorable dishes of the course.To finish, there was a rice dish featuring firefly squid. The umami of the squid combined with the slight bitterness of the mountain vegetables created a dish that felt very spring-like. The final dessert was beautifully arranged with strawberries, baked sweets, and cream, providing a delightful visual and perfectly concluding the course.Overall, this restaurant creatively incorporates local ingredients and the changing seasons into each dish. The memory of the closed school, the satoyama of Kan'non-shita, the tableware, ingredients, and aromas all come together, making it feel less like just a meal and more like an experience of the land itself. This auberge, which is worth the trip to Komatsu, truly offers a special experience! ⭐︎
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