In Kagurazaka, there is a restaurant that serves exceptionally creative dishes. Opened in August 2020, 'NK (New Wonderful Companions feat. Kakuland)' is part of the Ishikawa Group, which includes the Michelin three-star restaurant 'Kagurazaka Ishikawa.' In February 2026, it relocated from its previous location in 5-chome to its current spot in 6-chome. At the helm is Kento Kakutani, known as "Kakuland." His journey began when he attended a lecture by Ishikawa Hideki, the owner of 'Kagurazaka Ishikawa,' during his culinary school days. He joined the group and gained experience at establishments like 'Torahiro' and 'Ren San Shichi,' followed by training at the French restaurant 'L'Ambre,' serving as sous-chef at 'NANPEIDAI,' working in the kitchen of 'Ishikawa,' and even helping to launch 'Hato.' His career, which spans Japanese cuisine and crosses into Western and sushi realms, directly informs the free-spirited cooking he presents today.The name "Kakuland" perfectly encapsulates the restaurant's individuality. Encouraged by Ishikawa to cook freely without constraints, Kakutani creates a unique world that transcends the boundaries of Japanese, Western, and Chinese cuisines. The restaurant's name evolved from the original "Nanpeidai Chef's Table featuring Kakuland" to the current "New Wonderful Companions feat. Kakuland." While retaining the initials N and K, the name shifted from a geographical reference to one that highlights Kakutani and his companions as the stars. Through both the relocation and renaming, the restaurant's identity is gradually being refreshed.The "Aomori Prefecture Spear Squid Soup" serves as a strong introduction to the course. Despite its clear appearance, the moment you taste it, the aroma of the spear squid rises distinctly. The umami is straightforward, with the fragrance of sansho pepper providing a sharp finish. Instead of starting with a flashy dish, it cleverly captures your appetite with the strength of the dashi. Following this, the "Winter Melon, Water Shield, and Caviar" transports you to a summery scene. The juiciness of the cooked winter melon, the refreshing zing of ginger, the slippery texture of the water shield, and the saltiness and richness of the caviar come together beautifully. Even with the combination of winter melon and ginger, the addition of caviar does not feel out of place, creating a clear profile amidst the subtle flavors.The "Fried Clams" burst with the sweet umami of the clams amidst the fragrant batter. Layered with clam dashi sauce, the freshness of the snow peas and the acidity of the whole grain mustard lighten the aftertaste. This combination is exceptional. Next, the "Shark Fin and Shiitake Mushrooms" features the roasted aroma and chewy texture of the shark fin paired with a rich bone broth. The broth, infused with the umami of the shiitake mushrooms, is sharpened by pepper, yet the strength of the broth remains the standout feature. It’s so flavorful that you could easily eat several bowls of rice with it.The "Horse Mackerel Soba" hides the fish beneath delicate, thin soba noodles, paired with a seaweed sauce and plenty of fresh ginger. When mixed well, the richness of the horse mackerel, the oceanic aroma of the seaweed, and the spiciness of the ginger blend seamlessly, with olive oil tying everything together smoothly. The dish presents a Japanese aesthetic with a hint of Western nuance, finishing with a refreshing ginger aftertaste. The following "Spanish Mackerel" is prepared with grilled eggplant, marinated plum, Managatsuboshi peppers, and anchovies, interpreting Spanish cuisine through a Japanese lens. Each ingredient has a strong profile, yet when combined with the sweetness of the Spanish mackerel, it harmonizes perfectly. The acidity of the plum and the saltiness of the anchovies are exquisite, making it a borderless dish characteristic of Kakuland.The "Hida Beef Grilled Over Firewood" is so tender that you feel you could eat it without teeth. The meat, infused with the aroma of firewood, is complemented by a rich sesame sauce and refreshing garnishes, creating a delightful balance of flavors. Next, the "Whale Ramen" left a particularly strong impression this time. Using dried whale fat to create the broth is an intriguing approach, with the clear salty soup gradually revealing the umami and richness from the whale. It’s delicious. You might forget that it’s just part of the course and want to drink every last drop of the soup.The "Sweetfish Cream Risotto" is made with rice cooked in fresh cream, absorbing the umami of the sweetfish. Adding the roasted head and tail as a fragrant topping creates a delightful texture and aroma, preventing the dish from becoming overly creamy. This clever touch is brilliant, keeping it rich yet never monotonous. The following "Seafood Curry" is light and flavorful, built on the umami from various seafood without using butter. The spices blend beautifully with the seafood's umami, making it surprisingly easy to enjoy as a closing dish. You might find yourself reaching for another bowl.The "Watermelon" features juicy fruit paired with a salty jelly in a simple composition. The familiar relationship of salt with watermelon is transformed into a jelly, enhancing the sweetness distinctly. The next dish, "Yogurt Ice Cream," combines the acidity and slight bitterness of grapefruit with the refreshing quality of yogurt, rounded out with honey infused with vanilla. The long course concludes with a refreshing finish of acidity and bitterness.Looking back, from caviar to shark fin, anchovies, fresh cream, ramen, and curry, the ingredients and techniques are remarkably free. Yet, it never feels scattered, likely because Kakutani's sense of Japanese cuisine is firmly rooted within him. He skillfully incorporates elements from around the world, ultimately landing on a satisfying "delicious." The range and enjoyment of this experience truly embody the name "Kakuland." The excitement of not knowing what will come next is part of the charm of this restaurant. It was a great meal.
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