Dinner at Takanobashi Kiyotan (鷹ノ橋 清耽)

Dinner at Takanobashi Kiyotan (鷹ノ橋 清耽)

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After visiting Okayama, Kagawa, and Ehime, I ended my trip with a stay in Hiroshima.Among the many dining options in Hiroshima, I chose this restaurant mainly because it is a 2026 Bronze Award winner.On my way back to Hiroshima from Miyajima by rental car, I got caught in traffic and headed straight to the restaurant after checking into my hotel, without any time to rest.The restaurant is located in an area with few dining options, along a street lined with office buildings. Its exterior is modern, primarily white, with a small green sign that stands out beautifully against the white walls.I made a reservation two months in advance through Tabelog, and I arrived right at 8 PM as scheduled.The interior is very stylish! The walls are made of sake masu arranged in a grid pattern, with some sections featuring translucent panels that separate the inside from the outside. The back wall of the open kitchen is a striking red, possibly made of plaster, which leaves a strong impression. The chairs are from Maruni Wood Industry's "HIROSHIMA" line, blending modern aesthetics with a sense of luxury.There was one group at the counter when I arrived, and the owner along with one female staff member were in the kitchen. I was seated near the center of the counter and started with drinks.Looking at the drink menu, I found the prices reasonable, ordering a draft beer for JPY 850 and a soda mixed with Hakuro Ume-shu for JPY 850.Now, let’s dive into the food!**Ume Nyu-men**Warm noodles with a nice bite, featuring a pleasant acidity from the plum that whets the appetite, fulfilling its role as an appetizer.**Sashimi Trio**Sea bream aged with kombu for five days, concentrated in flavor; red tuna with Ariake nori; and grilled octopus, cut finely for easy eating. The wasabi was freshly grated and had a fluffy texture, which was delightful.**Fried Eggplant**The batter is made from crushed salt rice crackers, served with two types of salt: curry salt and regular salt. The contrast between the soft eggplant and the crispy batter was wonderful. Some comments mentioned that the eggplant was locally sourced from Karuga, but I couldn't confirm that.**Sawani Soup**This dish resembles a specialty from Aichi, featuring finely sliced vegetables and grilled pork. The addition of black pepper is an interesting twist.**Deep-fried Sweetfish**Being a small sweetfish, it has a light texture due to the moisture being drawn out. The chilled Kyoto water eggplant served alongside was also delicious.**Grilled Turban Shell**Topped with a tangy miso sauce that pairs perfectly. It was innovative to eat it with bread.**Grilled Eel**This eel is grilled over an open flame rather than steamed, resulting in a crispy skin and a fragrant aroma. Although it’s not steamed, the charcoal grilling keeps the inside moist and fluffy, enjoyed with fresh wasabi and sansho pepper.**Yuba, Kombu, and Eggplant Paste**This dish has a tangy flavor that highlights the subtle taste of eggplant, making it perfect for summer.**Corn Tempura**Pork belly marinated in Hatcho miso and koji, then deep-fried, along with shiitake mushrooms topped with mashed potatoes. The corn was incredibly sweet, while the pork had a rich, concentrated flavor. The shiitake was excellent, enhanced by the buttery mashed potatoes.**Jako Rice and Clear Soup**The dashi for the soup was top-notch and delicious, featuring large shimeji mushrooms. The "Buna Queen" mushrooms are said to be 15 times richer in ornithine than clams, making it a perfect bowl for drinkers! The jako rice included pickled Hiroshima greens, showcasing local pride.During the meal, I enjoyed two types of Japanese sake. The first was a local brew, Tenpoichi Junmai Sake SPICY Natsu Jun, which was crisp and refreshing. The second was also from Tenpoichi, a special junmai sake, Hattan Nishiki, served at room temperature. While the aroma was subtle, it was still elegant, with a gentle and smooth flavor.Now for the bill:Course for JPY 13,200 x 2,Beer JPY 850, Ume-shu soda JPY 850,Jasmine tea JPY 450,First sake JPY 1,000?, second sake JPY 1,200?Totaling JPY 30,750, with no service charge, making it an excellent value!The refined Japanese cuisine combined with a playful creativity made for a wonderfully structured course. The only downside was the absence of a dessert, which left a slight feeling of longing.After the meal, I had a brief chat with the owner about the ratings and awards. He mentioned that he doesn’t pay much attention to Tabelog. Instead, he hopes for the local Takanobashi area to regain its vibrancy, wanting not just inbound tourists but also locals to visit. The fact that he included "Takanobashi" in the restaurant's name reflects this commitment.I look forward to visiting again when I return to Hiroshima.It was a great meal!

8 / 10