Dinner at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム)

Dinner at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム)

at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム) on 19 September 2026
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Nestled by the Sumida River in Asakusa, the Michelin two-star restaurant "Nabeno-Ism" offers a unique culinary experience. Chef Yuichiro Watanabe masterfully blends the classical foundations of French cuisine with traditional Edo ingredients sourced from Asakusa, creating a one-of-a-kind course that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.I enjoyed the beautifully crafted early autumn menu, paired with a meticulous selection of drinks ranging from Champagne to Japanese sake and rare still wines from around the globe.1. Amuse-Bouche & Champagne An iconic amuse-bouche that heralds the beginning of Nabeno-Ism. The rich puffed rice texture and sweetness of the traditional "Kaminari Okoshi" harmonize beautifully with the saltiness and richness of exquisite French fermented butter, creating a perfect emulsion in the mouth. The Moroccan-style marinated green olives, with their fresh herbs and spices, are exceptional. ★Pairing: PHILIPPONNAT RÉSERVE PERPÉTUELLE BRUT The robust structure of this Pinot Noir-based Champagne, with its complex aging aromas from reserve wines and delicate bubbles, beautifully envelops the diverse textures and richness of the starter, perfectly preparing the palate.2. Niigata Prefecture Toyosui Pear and Edo Traditional Komatsuna Gazpacho A very modern and sophisticated approach. The refreshing and sharp natural sweetness of Toyosui pear and the clean green notes of komatsuna create a stunning harmony in this chilled gazpacho. The delicate texture of the espuma on top contrasts with the pleasant crunch of the "-20°C Toyosui pear" and black tapioca hidden below, while the refreshing lemongrass adds a crisp finish.3. Appetizer (Soba) & Japanese Sake (Daiginjo) Dish: Soba dumplings made from Ryogoku Edo Soba flour, finished with a sauce emulsion technique. Using the renowned soba flour from "Hosokawa," the rich umami of the two-year-aged Rishiri kombu jelly from Okui Kaiseido shines through. The exquisite caviar (Osetra) adds a firm saltiness, complemented by the sweetness of fresh shrimp. The earthy and noble aroma of the soba is perfectly balanced by the vodka cream and the sharpness of Amagi wasabi. ★Pairing: Masuizumi Junmai Daiginjo "Kotobuki" A treasure from Toyama. The floral and transparent ginjo aroma typical of daiginjo, along with the refined sweetness of the rice, perfectly harmonizes with the kombu broth, the saltiness of the caviar, and the aroma of the soba, creating a miraculous pairing that transcends French cuisine.4. Appetizer (Salmon) & White Wine Dish: New Zealand's "ORA KING" marinated in Junmai sake and low-temperature confit. The "Ora King Salmon" is marinated in Junmai sake and confited at low temperature with tahini sesame oil for an astonishingly moist finish. The flesh glistens ruby red and melts in the mouth at body temperature. Topped with salmon roe and accompanied by a medley of mushrooms and marinated persimmon, the cream of cep mushrooms evokes the deep earthy aroma of autumn. The vibrant acidity of the puree sharply highlights the salmon's rich fat. ★Pairing: Sancerre 2022 Domaine Vacheron The pinnacle of Loire winemaking. The sharp acidity and beautiful minerality typical of Sauvignon Blanc beautifully cleanse the rich fat of the Ora King, amplifying the earthy aromas of the mushrooms.5. Warm Appetizer (Escargot) & Red Wine Dish: Burgundy-style escargot ragu with black pepper, vermouth, and anchovy flavor. A classic Burgundy dish reimagined in a modern way. The powerful umami of the escargot ragu is enhanced by the anise-flavored liqueur "Vermouth" and the sharp kick of black pepper, stuffed into green pepper cases. The smooth garlic puree, black olive puree, and basil pistou intertwine complexly, leaving a rich yet refreshing herbal finish. ★Pairing: LAFOU DE BATEA 2021 A rare red wine from Terra Alta, Spain. The rich body of ripe black fruits from Garnacha and the spicy aromas reminiscent of Mediterranean herbs perfectly marry with the earthiness of the escargot and the strength of the herb sauce.6. Fish Dish (Anago from Tsushima, Nagasaki) & White Wine Dish: Anago from Tsushima and zucchini socca beignet. The thick anago from Tsushima is paired with zucchini and coated in a traditional Southern French chickpea batter to create a beignet. The light, crispy coating gives way to the perfectly sealed moisture of the anago, which flakes beautifully. The red wine vinegar marinade of OSMIC tomatoes, pine nuts, and black olive puree adds a pleasant acidity and herbal sharpness to the rich fat of the anago. ★Pairing: TARA Atacama 2021 An ultra-rare white wine produced in the extreme conditions of the Atacama Desert in Chile. The intense minerality from wild yeast, with a sharp acidity, beautifully washes away the oiliness of the beignet and highlights the umami of the anago.7. Meat Dish (Veal from Brittany) & Red Wine Dish: Veal fillet from Brittany prepared in the style of foie gras. The veal fillet is vacuum-cooked at a perfect temperature of 64°C with the rich aroma of sage. It is finished to a beautiful rosy hue and roasted with a glaze hiding walnut rillettes. The smooth and rich sauce of Roquefort and almonds adds overwhelming layers to the delicate texture of the veal. A micro-herb salad featuring "Edo herbs" serves as a beautiful accompaniment. ★Pairing: Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 2022 Domaine de la Vougeraie A prestigious Burgundy estate. The elegant raspberry-like acidity of the Pinot Noir, along with the tight minerality and fine tannins of Les Evocelles, perfectly harmonizes with the delicate fibers of the veal and the saltiness of the Roquefort sauce.8. Avant-Dessert Dish: Crème d'Ange made from goat cheese from the Loire, Saint-Maur. A dish showcasing the pastry chef's skill, transforming noble goat cheese (Saint-Maur) into a refined crème d'Ange. The refreshing and slightly bitter herbal aroma of the pesticide-free bay laurel ice cream from Watanabe Farm beautifully resets the richness of the cheese.9. Grand Dessert Dish: "Kougyoku" apples from Nagano Prefecture in a neo-tarte tatin style. The autumnal flavor of Kougyoku apples is expressed in a three-dimensional manner through compote, sorbet, and confiture, showcasing their strong acidity and sweetness. The spiced aroma of the gingerbread mousse serves as the base, while the acidity of the pomegranate sauce, infused with kirsch, elevates the classic tarte tatin to modern gastronomy.10. Herbal Tea & Mignardises Dish: Fresh herbal tea (mint and shiso) and petite sweets inspired by Komagata. The meal concludes with a special fresh herbal tea, beautifully warmed in a transparent glass pot illuminated by flickering candles, showcasing a vibrant green hue. The refreshing mint and the noble, exotic aroma of Japan's shiso harmonize perfectly in this warm and pure cup. The accompanying petite sweets include a perfectly crispy-on-the-outside, chewy-on-the-inside mini canelé, cinnamon cookies, black sesame macarons, and walnut brownies. The exquisite aftertaste created by the combination of Western mint and Japanese shiso beautifully completes the story of Asakusa Komagata with every last bite.[Overall Impression] Chef Watanabe's dishes possess a "clear story" and "meticulous flavor blueprint" in every plate. While based on traditional French sauce techniques, he infuses the identity of Asakusa and Komagata with Japanese ingredients, maintaining perfect balance throughout, even in the final herbal tea. I have deep respect and admiration for his overwhelming compositional strength and the precision of the wine and sake pairings that transform the world of each dish.With a beautiful view of the Sumida River, the staff's refined yet warm hospitality creates a truly supreme gastronomic experience that Japan can proudly present to the world. Thank you for a wonderful time. It was a truly great meal.

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