It’s incredibly difficult to make a reservation at this restaurant, and I had no idea how to secure one. However, through sheer determination, I managed to get a reservation starting in 2021 and have been coming ever since.When they first moved to their current location, photography was prohibited out of consideration for other regulars, but now it’s of course allowed.Every time I visit, the restaurant continues to evolve, and it truly is a remarkable place. Naruse is not just any tempura restaurant; it’s a special experience. While the dishes are indeed tempura, they are so light and delicate that you can enjoy them without feeling heavy, almost like a dream.On my first visit, I saw the fish for sashimi being briefly dipped in oil. I thought it was a waste, but this is how Shimura-san prepares sashimi.Dipping it in low-temperature oil brings the sashimi to life.We toasted with a glass of champagne.This time, I splurged on one of the finest white wines from Burgundy, the "Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 2022" crafted by Jean-Claude Ramonet.It was the most expensive wine I’ve ever had.Nakagawa-san served it with great care, and I thoroughly enjoyed the Puligny-Montrachet. It was the best white Burgundy I’ve ever tasted.I was informed that "Les Enseignères" is adjacent to the grand cru vineyards of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bâtard, showcasing Ramonet’s exceptional minerality, rich depth, and elegant acidity in a refined style. I love Meursault, but this white Burgundy was more delicate and sophisticated.The world of white wine is still so deep and fascinating.We started with peach puree. The Shizuoka peach paired with finger lime created a delightful contrast in texture, making it delicious.The sashimi was flower sea bream.It was beautifully presented and tasted wonderful today as well. I was worried about the rain, but since it’s caught in fixed nets, there was no need for concern. The citrus that looked like sudachi was actually early mikan, which complemented the sashimi perfectly without being too sour.Next came bonito and swordfish. Grilled over wood, the aroma was fantastic, unlike charcoal.The bonito from Satsue has been feeding on a lot of sardines, so it didn’t have the typical iron taste and was quite flavorful. The swordfish had a lovely roasted aroma and was delicious.The first tempura was conger eel.The sound of cutting through the bones was pleasing and whetted my appetite.The first tempura was served directly by Shimura-san, who placed it on top of grated daikon with dipping sauce.The conger eel puffed up and became fluffy.The sweetness of the conger eel spread in my mouth.I savored the joy of eating Naruse’s tempura.Freshly harvested okra.The thin batter was crispy, and the inside was very juicy.Eggplant.The outside was crispy, and there was no oil inside. It was fragrant, and the sweetness of the eggplant was wonderful.Squid.It was so fresh that the flesh was crunchy. The light batter and the sweetness of the squid were perfect.Red sea bream.It was puffed up and fluffy. The sweetness of the red sea bream was exceptional.Corn.The corn was fried in batter, and more corn was added on top. It was the ultimate sweetness.Jindo squid.The Jindo squid from Hamana Lake had an especially crispy batter. The cross-section was beautiful. The sweetness and umami of the squid were overwhelming. I enjoyed it with salt and wasabi.Horse mackerel.Naruse’s specialty, horse mackerel tempura.The large, plump horse mackerel from Satsue was out of this world. It was brushed with soy sauce, so I enjoyed it as is.Pumpkin.Fried in low-temperature oil for a long time, it had concentrated sweetness and a cake-like flavor. It was like a dessert.The skin was fragrant and wonderful.Red mullet.In a new dish, crispy red mullet was served in a frothy sauce made with green tomatoes and vinegar, which I crumbled and enjoyed. It was an interesting new way to eat, with the acidity of the sauce and green tomatoes enhancing the deliciousness of the red mullet.I witnessed Naruse’s continuous evolution.Salad with Do-mang crab from Hamana Lake.The flavor of the freshly harvested arugula was very rich. I enjoyed it with fish jelly.Burdock.The umami was concentrated.Young horse mackerel.This was also a new way to enjoy it.The young horse mackerel was soaked in a chilled broth. It was a refreshing presentation for the hot season.Next came the best rice cooked in a pot.Eel.Finally, the eel was served alongside the freshly cooked rice. Normally, after such a large amount of tempura, one might feel heavy, but Naruse’s tempura is so light that it doesn’t tire you out at all.That said, I was full, but the finale was eel topped with wasabi.The eel tempura is a specialty unique to Naruse.Today, I also had tempura bara.In the beginning, I only chose tempura don, but after learning about tempura cha and tempura bara, I found that tempura bara is my favorite.The delicious pickles were as always.The grilled mackerel crowned the end of the meal.We moved to the tea room, where Shimura-san prepared cold brewed sencha for us.For dessert, we had homemade jasmine ice cream.The garden reflected beautifully in the pond today. I was glad the rain stopped so I could enjoy the garden.My 15th visit to Naruse was truly a delightful experience. I am moved by their commitment to constantly evolve without becoming complacent. Despite being so famous and difficult to reserve, I have great respect for Shimura-san’s humility and dedication to always doing his best. Thank you for another wonderful meal today.If you ever manage to get a reservation, this is a place you should visit at least once in a lifetime.If Michelin ever comes to Shizuoka, this restaurant is 200% guaranteed to earn three stars.
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