Dinner at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム)

Dinner at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム)

at Nabeno-Ism (ナベノ-イズム) on 9 September 2026
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Experience the culmination of the genius French chef Yuichiro Watanabe, renowned for his illustrious career in the culinary world. After training at Tsujicho Culinary School and Tsujicho French School, he honed his skills at three prestigious restaurants in France, including Paul Bocuse and as an opening staff member at Robuchon, where he became Executive Chef in just ten years. After 21 years at Robuchon, he opened Nabeno-Ism in Asakusa in 2016.Upon hearing that Nabeno-Ism will close at the end of this year, I, along with fellow aspiring food professionals, eagerly decided to enjoy the dinner course priced at JPY 30,000. The entrance is modest, but I learned that the first floor is the kitchen, while the second and third floors serve as dining areas, creating a vertical structure. The calm Japanese atmosphere is beautifully blended with classical Western elements, and the friendly service softens the refined ambiance.At each seat, a plate resembling the chef's family crest is set in sealing wax, symbolizing the fusion of Japanese and Western cultures. This plate is flipped over at the start of dinner, and all dishes are served on it. How stylish!We enjoyed the following dishes along with a bottle of sparkling wine and two glasses of wine (white from Clos Rougeot and red from Côte de Nuits Premier Cru):▪️ Collaborative snacks with a local long-established shop:- Tartlet with Tanegame Monaka- Fondant of avocado and marinated Spanish tuna- Moroccan-style marinated green olivesEach small snack is packed with incredible craftsmanship, stimulating the senses with Middle Eastern spices while presenting a visually stunning start to dinner!▪️ Gaspacho of Bountiful Pear and KomatsunaThe bitterness of Komatsuna is completely absent, replaced by the refreshing aroma of lemongrass, and the texture of black tapioca adds a fun element!▪️ Soba dumplings made with soba flour from Ryogoku Edosoba HosokawaServed with a jelly made from two-year-aged premium kombu, a mountain of caviar, sweet marinated sweet shrimp, vodka cream, and wasabi.▪️ Confit of New Zealand salmonMarinated in Junmai sake and low-temperature confit in Taihaku oil, the salmon is moist and melts in your mouth! Accompanied by various mushrooms and marinated & jammed persimmons. The lines on the plate resemble a musical staff, featuring pomegranate essence, smoked cream of cep mushrooms, and a purée of sauerkraut, topped with caviar marinated in Junmai sake.▪️ Ragu of escargot from Burgundy, FranceFlavored with black pepper, Pernod, and anchovy. Served in a case of roasted almonds and green peppers, accompanied by smooth garlic purée.▪️ Sokka Baye with anago from Tsushima, Nagasaki, and zucchiniAccompanied by cornichons, pine nuts, red wine vinegar-marinated tomatoes, and black olive purée with basil pesto.▪️ Filet of veal from Brittany, prepared in the style of foie grasVacuum-cooked at 64°C with sage aroma and finished with a glaze hiding walnut rillettes. Served with fresh sage oil and Roquefort sauce.▪️ Sandmole Blanc from the Loire, transformed into Crème d'Ange, served with organic bay leaf glass.▪️ Tarte Tatin-style with Shinano Gold from NaganoAccompanied by compote, sorbet, confiture, and pain d'épices mousse with pomegranate sauce.▪️ Four small sweets inspired by Japan's Tsutsumi, Bach coffee, and Komagata.▪️ Post-meal beverage:Herbal tea made with fresh herbs.The beauty of the presentation is undeniable, and I was overwhelmed by the diversity of ingredients and cooking methods used on a single plate (this is what a grand maison is all about). For example, the seasonal mushrooms served alongside the salmon confit were prepared in three different ways, delicately layered with marinated and jammed persimmons hidden in between. Every plate involved this level of meticulous effort, and imagining the processes in the kitchen left me slightly dizzy.I had a mesmerizing time paired with exquisite wines from Burgundy's Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Chef Watanabe, with his national treasure-level skills, I look forward to your future endeavors in a different form!

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