Dinner at Restaurant Naz (レストラン ナズ)

Dinner at Restaurant Naz (レストラン ナズ)

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Having been a patron since its inception, I believe I've visited over 20 times.Now, it's become so popular that only regulars can secure a reservation, but even from my first visit, its potential was evident.This time, I was astonished by the quality, which was the best I've ever experienced.Chef Natsuki's originality and the thoughtful composition of the dishes always leave me in awe, but this time, the surprises truly blew my mind.When I heard the explanation for one particular dish, I couldn't help but burst into laughter at how far it exceeded my expectations.When encountering the unknown, do people react with surprise or laughter? Perhaps it’s just me.What impressed me was not merely the quirky surprises, but how they were executed without excess, landing perfectly on the note of "deliciousness."Chef Natsuki welcomed us with his usual warm smile, showing no signs of the effort that went into these creations.Now, let’s dive into the details.*The following dishes are paired with non-alcoholic beverages.By the way, the quality of the non-alcoholic pairings is among the best in Japan.1. Goya Rice Steamed Rare ancient rice variety, Shiroge Mochi, harvested in Ina, steamed with goya broth, and topped with caviar. The combination of bitterness and caviar is unexpected yet delightful. The caviar is customized from Chinese stock processed in Japan. *Yomogi and Ume Syrup There are two types of yomogi: Sato Yomogi and Yama Yomogi. This time, we used low-temperature extracted Yama Yomogi, which beautifully complements the bitterness of the goya.2. Cucumber and Fresh Somen Fermented cucumber paired with freshly made somen from Suzaka. The cucumber is lacto-fermented with the skin for 2-3 weeks, and the fresh extract is used to season the noodles. This was my first experience with fresh somen, and the texture was completely different. You can enjoy the sweetness, umami, and acidity of the cucumber. *Kurosawa Brewery's Amazake, freshly harvested fennel, fennel seeds, and Granny Smith apple aim for a fresh green note.3. Grilled Eggplant This dish is reminiscent of the handmade treats Chef's grandmother used to make for him. Only those who know that taste can create such a lovingly crafted dish. The skin, made solely from local flour and the moisture of grilled eggplant, is exquisitely thin. Inside, there’s round eggplant, black pork, and sesame blended with three-year-aged miso. The fat from the black pork is wonderfully rich. Black pork from Nagano is quite rare. *White Peach Juice, Lingonberry, and Brewed Lavender The beautiful red color comes from the skin of the eggplant, which has been lacto-fermented. According to the chef, eggplant and lavender share a commonality.4. Sweet Corn Harvested at 5 AM every morning, this corn is fresh. This time, the focus is not on sweetness but on moisture and greenness. While it looks the same as last year, this year has seen remarkable evolution. Inside the sweet corn ice cream, there’s caramel made from the extract of 70-80 ears of corn, which is astonishing. The ice cream also features fermented mango, corn crumble, marigold, and nasturtium, each receiving careful attention. *The bitterness and greenness of Benifuki tea, with the aroma of cacao shells.5. Shinshu Salmon This dish has remained unchanged since the restaurant's founding. This salmon, aged for three and a half years, is only available here. Wrapped in beautifully arranged turnips, it’s served with fermented tomato extract, pomegranate, and shiso sauce. On a separate plate, there’s one-month-aged raw salmon and Nara pickles. *To match the floral aroma of the salmon, there’s fermented raspberry, rose distillate, Darjeeling tea, and red shiso.6. Sweetfish This sweetfish is raised in the spring water of Ueda City. Wrapped in Manba chili, it’s prepared as a spring roll and cooked with residual heat. The spring roll skin is crafted to ensure there are no overlaps, resulting in a single cohesive piece. Continuing from last year, I was served three pieces, which I greatly appreciated. *Freshly squeezed watermelon and rhubarb acidity, with a hint of bitterness from fermented butterbur. This pairing is so skillfully done, it brings tears to your eyes.7. Summer Venison This is the only time of year you can enjoy venison that hasn’t been aged, taken immediately after hunting. The deer, which has only been eating new shoots since spring, has a clean texture. The cooking focuses on its moisture. The venison is presented as a cutlet, cooked in clarified butter. The cream is caramelized to the point of smoking, and the sauce is made with fermented chili, smoked and dried paprika, and red wine. This approach is entirely different from before, and when I said, "I’ve never had anything like this," the chef replied, "This is the first time I’ve served it." (laughs) It somewhat reminds me of a venison burger. *Blood orange, red pepper, pink pepper, and rose hip, resembling the fresh blood of the deer.8. Spaghetti After a series of impressive dishes, this one truly knocked me off my chair. Spaghetti and zucchini—these two words don’t conjure up any expectations, especially since it’s made with dried noodles. Why dried noodles? The zucchini in this season is deliciously moist, and the idea is to concentrate that flavor. The zucchini is roasted whole and then squeezed through a cloth. Only about 200cc can be extracted from four zucchinis, and yet, they use that to boil the noodles, which is quite a bold move. It takes several minutes to infuse the flavor, which is why dried noodles are necessary. Additionally, the sauce is filled with white squid and smoked zucchini flowers. On a separate plate, there’s mayonnaise made from fresh pollen, adding to the surprises. Eating it feels like a "squid yakisoba," but it’s an incredibly elaborate version of it. *Apricot, Lapsang Souchong tea, star anise.9. Watermelon Gelato Made with just milk and watermelon, it has a subtle sweetness. Stuffed watermelon sugar, fir tree new shoots, and oil from young red pines.10. Hazelnut Cake11. Herbal TeaThe creativity here far exceeds imagination.Chef Natsuki is truly growing into a chef that Japan can be proud of.

10 / 10