In 2023, the theme was "Surprise."In 2024, it will be "Understanding."And in 2026, it will be "Dialogue."After my third visit to Pellegrino, those words came to mind.During my first visit, I was overwhelmed."I became unsure of what I should eat for the rest of my life."That’s how shocking it was.By the second visit, I was a bit more composed.I was trying to understand what Chef Takahashi was thinking and aiming for, as well as the structure and intention behind his dishes.And now, this time.While enjoying the meal, I felt as if I was in dialogue with Chef Takahashi.Of course, it wasn’t just through words.The selection of ingredients.The cooking techniques.The wine.And the prosciutto.All of it felt like questions posed by Chef Takahashi.What impressed me most about this course was its focus on "subtraction."Hokkigai (surf clam)Princess paprikaMebaru (rockfish)Asparagus sauvageNone of the dishes flaunted complex sauces or techniques.Rather, they concentrated on how much of the natural aroma and umami of the ingredients could be drawn out.◆ First, the broth made from a whole Nagano Ina Gitaro chicken.The umami of the chicken is concentrated, yet it has an astonishing clarity.With each sip, I felt my body quietly awakening.I’ve had this every time, but once again, it was an important cup that indicated the direction of the course.◆ Hokkigai from Kamishihoro, Hokkaido.Italian zucchini TronbettaTaggiasca olivesThe combination of ingredients is simple, yet the sweetness and briny aroma of the hokkigai vividly stand out.◆ The dish featuring Princess paprika was also wonderful.I was once again surprised that such a common ingredient as paprika could possess such rich sweetness and aroma.Wild mushrooms (San Jorge) and burrata cheese accompanied it, but the star was undoubtedly the paprika.◆ Botan ebi (sweet shrimp) from Shimamaki, Hokkaido.ArtichokeFruit tomatoThe sweetness of the botan ebi is overwhelming.However, this time, the slight bitterness of the artichoke left a lasting impression.It enhances the sweetness while tightening the overall dish.◆ The dish featuring Mebaru was one of the highlights of this meal.A soup concentrated with seafood umamiAsparagus sauvageSalsa verdeAnd saffronAt first glance, it may seem like a strong combination for the fish, but due to the exquisite cooking, the Mebaru maintains its presence throughout.It was a dish that reaffirmed Chef Takahashi's cooking skills.◆ I was particularly impressed by the pasta dish.Right in front of me, the dough was rolled out, cut, and boiled.Vibrant pestoAnd Caluga caviarAt first, I thought it was a caviar dish.But it was different.The main focus was on the pasta, the pesto, and the wheat.The caviar existed to amplify the aroma and umami.What was even more intriguing was when Chef Takahashi mentioned, "I believe that currently, Chinese caviar is the best."Honestly, I was a bit surprised.I had my own preconceived notions that caviar came from Russia or Iran.But when I think about it, the entire course was like that.Choosing what is currently in the best condition, rather than focusing on brands or traditions.This episode beautifully illustrated that attitude.◆ The main dish, the fillet of Yazawa beef, was magnificent once again.The center was a glossy rose color.The cooking was in a unique realm that was neither rare nor medium.The accompanying Kamo eggplant was also wonderful, harmonizing beautifully with the strength of the meat.And then, part two.A massive Italian manual slicer sat prominently.This time, I was strongly drawn to the slicer itself.Where did it come from?Why was I so captivated by prosciutto?I pondered these questions as I gazed at it.◆ Breasaola made from Yazawa beef shikinbo.◆ Mortadella.◆ 48-month aged Jamón Ibérico de Bellota.The prosciutto, sliced to the extreme thinness, was a world where aroma was savored more than texture.When received in the palm of my hand, the warmth from my body melted the fat, releasing its fragrance.It felt less like eating and more like connecting with the ingredient of prosciutto.The wine was also wonderful.Starting with Ulysse Collin Champagne, followed by Aldo Conterno, Gravner, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Il Paradiso, and Conterno.It wasn’t just a showcase of high-end wines.It expressed the value of aging through the dishes.The presence of Gravner was particularly impressive.The complexity that transcended typical white wine beautifully resonated with the botan ebi and seafood dishes.If I were to summarize this visit to Pellegrino in one phrase,"A course of ingredients and aging."AromaCooking techniquesAgingAnd timeChef Takahashi is getting closer to the ingredients than ever before.And while savoring the dishes, I was contemplating where the chef is headed.My third visit was not only a time to enjoy the food but also a quiet dialogue with the chef.It was a great meal.