2026.8.YudonkaOn a summer night when the harsh heat of the day has slightly eased and the evening breeze feels pleasant, I arrived at "aca1°", a modern Spanish restaurant located in Nihonbashi.At the entrance, I was welcomed by the artwork of Yuko Hayashi, and in the open kitchen counter where Chef Tetsuo Higashi showcases his skills, Hiroshi Sugimoto's "Seascape" quietly stands. Each element of the space seems to embody Higashi's aesthetic sensibility. "aca1°" is a place that not only makes dining beautiful but also enhances the experience of being there. I enjoyed the summer offerings of "aca1°" in this beautiful setting.Squid Ink Arroz Negro ♡♡The Arroz Negro is generously topped with red sea urchin from Amakusa, Kumamoto, to the point where the rice underneath is no longer visible. The dish is seasoned with Spanish sherry vinegar, and its crisp acidity evokes the essence of Japanese sushi rice. The rich and layered umami of the sea urchin is beautifully complemented by the acidity of the sherry vinegar, enhancing its depth. The sweetness of the sea urchin, the richness of the Arroz Negro, and the sharpness of the acidity create a harmonious blend, resulting in a dish that transcends the term "appetizer paella" in terms of perfection.Bocadillo of Young Horse Mackerel ♡♡This signature dish of "aca1°" features young horse mackerel marinated in vinegar, nestled in a bread infused with shiso and tomato. Created with the thought of "cooking suitable for this land" upon relocating to Nihonbashi, it is a true masterpiece. Taking a bite, the refreshing acidity of the vinegar envelops the mackerel, followed by the vibrant aroma of shiso, and the flavor of the tomato-infused bread gradually unfolds. The strong umami of the mackerel is elevated by the acidity, herbs, and the sweetness of the bread, creating a wonderful unity. This dish showcases the charm of young horse mackerel in a way that is distinctly different from sushi, making it a rare find.Grilled Spanish Mackerel ♡The dragon-sized Spanish mackerel is grilled over wood fire and served with sherry vinegar and red shiso. The mackerel, infused with the essence of the wood fire, boasts a rich flavor with ample fat. The sharp acidity of the sherry vinegar cuts through the richness, making it surprisingly light to eat. Accompanying it is the red shiso, which has a smooth texture similar to the mackerel. The interplay of fat, acidity, and fresh flavors harmonizes beautifully, capturing the strength of the mackerel while leaving a pleasant aftertaste. The balance of the smoky aroma from the wood fire and the acidity of the sherry vinegar is truly remarkable.Manganji Pepper and Ajo Blanco ♡Ajo Blanco, a cold soup from the Andalusian region of Spain traditionally made with almonds and garlic, is elevated to a smooth puree and paired with Manganji peppers from Ohara, Kyoto. As soon as the bowl is placed, the fresh and vibrant aroma of the Manganji peppers tickles the nose. When you take a spoonful, the roasted flavor of the almonds and the rich depth spread across the palate, yet the aftertaste is surprisingly light. This exquisite balance makes it a delightful summer dish.Fried Sweetfish Andalusian Style ♡Sweetfish from Arashiyama, Kyoto, is coated in semolina flour, lightly fried, and topped with a reduced sherry vinegar sauce, along with Manchego cheese and wood sorrel. As you bite into the crispy coating, the delicate flavor of the sweetfish and its slightly bitter aroma emerge. The deep richness of the Manchego cheese complements it, while the refreshing scent of wood sorrel lingers at the end. This dish reinterprets the sweetfish, a symbol of Japanese summer, using Spanish techniques and ingredients, creating a delightful fusion of flavors that transport you between Japan and Spain.Horse Meat Soppressata ♡♡This summer specialty is served only during a brief period when the sesame leaves from Sanzen-in, Ohara, Kyoto, are in season. The horse meat pâté, made from lean meat and fat, is grilled over wood fire to create a fragrant crust, then mixed with smoked egg yolk and migas (bread crumbs, prosciutto, garlic, paprika) and generously spread on a baguette. First, wrap it in sesame leaves, then pair it with shiso or baguette on a separate plate. The moment it enters your mouth, the concentrated umami of the horse meat and the sweetness of the fat, combined with the saltiness of the smoked egg yolk and prosciutto, create a delightful explosion of flavors. The strong bitterness and fresh aroma of the sesame leaves lighten the rich taste. Adding shiso elevates the refreshing aroma, making it irresistible to keep taking bites. What’s fascinating is that this dish not only allows you to enjoy horse meat but also highlights the sesame leaves as a key ingredient, beautifully showcasing seasonal ingredients in a single plate. It’s a specialty that symbolizes summer at "aca1°".Jamon Serrano Soup ♡This cup, poured into HERMÈS's "Guadalquivir", is a soup slowly extracted from Jamon Serrano at 90°C for five hours. Tonight, it is paired with seasonal conger eel grilled over wood fire. Despite having no added salt, the moment you sip it, the umami of the Jamon Serrano rushes in. The aging aroma of the pork and concentrated umami quietly spread, leaving a lingering aftertaste. When you bite into the thick conger eel, it transforms from a bland impression to a surprisingly robust flavor. The rich umami of the Jamon Serrano, the delicate sweetness of the conger eel, and the smoky aroma from the wood fire create a fascinating encounter between Spanish ham and the summer conger eel of Japan. It’s not about flashiness, but rather a deep, comforting deliciousness that seeps in with each sip. This is truly a dish that allows you to enjoy the essence of summer.Wood-Grilled Sirloin ♡Tonight, I chose the sirloin from Kobe beef, raised for 39 months, from a selection that included filet. The grilled meat has a beautifully caramelized surface, transitioning to a stunning red towards the center, creating a mesmerizing gradient. As you cut into it, the fine texture of the meat is evident. When you think of sirloin, you might imagine a strong fat content, but taking a bite completely changes that impression. Instead of the sweetness of the fat dominating, the rich umami of the beef gradually spreads, allowing you to fully appreciate the experience of eating meat. Accompanying it is eggplant from Ohara, Kyoto, whose sweetness and juiciness, enhanced by grilling, gently complement the robust aftertaste of the beef. The 39 months of nurturing have produced a strong yet surprisingly refined flavor. This dish reminds you that "sirloin" is not just about fat, but about the unique umami that can only be experienced with sirloin. It was an impressively memorable dish.Abalone Caldoso ♡♡Tonight, I enjoyed this rice dish for the first time in four years, made with abalone liver that has reached its peak. The broth, rich in umami from the abalone liver, is generously combined with tender steamed abalone. As soon as the bowl is placed, the rich aroma from the abalone liver wafts up. Taking a spoonful, the concentrated ocean flavor bursts in your mouth. First, enjoy it as is. The sharpness of black pepper tightens the flavor, allowing you to fully savor the deep umami of the abalone liver and flesh. Then, when you sprinkle seaweed and mix it all together, the aroma of the sea enhances the umami of the abalone even further. Each bite transforms, and I couldn’t stop until the last spoonful. This dish allows you to enjoy the seasonal abalone, not just the flesh but also the liver, to the fullest. After four years, this reunion made the deliciousness even more profound.Peach ♡Tonight, I savored the brand peach "Hakurei" from Okayama Prefecture. True to its name, it is adorned with a translucent, beautiful white color, and a sweet, fragrant peach aroma wafts up. Taking a bite, the juicy sweetness spreads across my mouth, leaving a refined aftertaste. The sweetness is never heavy, fading away gracefully along with its lovely aroma. It truly captures the essence of summer in a beautiful peach.Crema Catalana ♡♡Tonight, I enjoyed the traditional cold dessert "Crema Catalana" from the Catalonia region of Spain, served with goat milk ice cream. It has a certain structure compared to crème brûlée, and upon tasting, the rich and dense flavor slowly spreads across the palate. Yet, the texture is surprisingly smooth, with the rich flavors of egg and milk lingering long after. The refreshing flavor of the goat milk ice cream adds a cool lightness to the dense crema catalana, cleansing the palate. The combination of richness and freshness, depth and lightness, beautifully highlights each other's flavors without clashing. This dish evokes the essence of Spain even in its aftertaste.Goat Milk Ice Cream with Olive Oil ♡♡The goat milk ice cream is paired with rare extra virgin olive oil "Picual" from Okayama, pressed within 24 hours of harvesting. The goat milk ice cream itself is delicious, but what captivates the heart in this dish is the beautiful green olive oil. Taking a bite, the refreshing aroma reminiscent of green grass spreads, followed by the rich depth of the olive oil blending with the creaminess of the ice cream. It’s rich yet surprisingly light in aftertaste. As you continue to eat, the green aroma pleasantly wafts through your nose, further enhancing the gentle richness of the goat milk. The sweetness, creaminess, and the green aroma of the olive oil all meld together, creating a moment where I felt this was the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted.Amazon Cocoa and Raw Chocolate with Apple Chips and PistachiosThe artistic presentation of the raw chocolate is mesmerizing. Gently pick up a thin branch and enjoy it with cocoa and pistachios. The moment it enters your mouth, the deep, bitter flavor of cocoa unfolds before the sweetness. The roasted aroma of pistachios layers on top, leading to a rich yet not overly sweet aftertaste. This dessert moves away from the concept of "chocolate = sweet". It allows you to savor the bitterness, aroma, and concentrated umami of cocoa. It feels less like eating a piece of chocolate and more like enjoying the deliciousness of cocoa itself.On this summer night, what captivated me the most was the "Horse Meat Soppressata", which I hadn’t had in a while. It’s a dish that beautifully captures the fleeting beauty of the season, with the rich umami of horse meat at its core, layered with the bitterness of sesame leaves, the acidity of vinegar, and the aroma of herbs, creating a vivid tapestry of flavors in each bite.Moreover, when discussing Higashi's cuisine, the element of "acidity" is indispensable. It’s not just sour; it accentuates the contours of the umami inherent in the ingredients, adding lightness to rich flavors and depth to delicate materials. The dishes that carefully layer Spanish techniques and ingredients with Japanese seasonal flavors, aromas, bitterness, and umami are neither Spanish cuisine made Japanese nor Japanese cuisine made Spanish. They represent a world where the aesthetic sensibilities of Japan and Spain meet and are sublimated into a single dish. Higashi's cooking beautifully illustrates the moment when summer ingredients shine the brightest, all connected by the thread of acidity. Once again tonight, I was captivated by the aesthetic sensibility embodied in each dish and the joy of savoring the seasons.