Dinner at Kawada (川田)

Dinner at Kawada (川田)

at Kawada (川田) on 30 June 2026
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2026.6.A Beautiful Single FlowerThe wind shifts from the sweltering heat of the day, hinting that summer is still a bit early. I have arrived at "Nihonbashi Ningyocho Kawada," a Japanese restaurant where the owner, Haruji Kawada, has been cooking solo since its opening. Tonight, I will experience the essence of Japan's seasons through his dishes.Sea Bream Broth with Fresh Sea Urchin ♡A summer specialty, the sea bream broth is transformed into a jelly-like consistency and paired with fresh sea urchin. Upon lifting the lid, a delicate aroma of yuzu citrus wafts up, and the shimmering sea bream broth is both rich and refined. The umami and sweetness of the sea urchin elevate the deliciousness to new heights.Yam Stalks in Yoshino Style ♡This dish truly embodies the feeling of being at "Nihonbashi Ningyocho Kawada." The crunchy texture of the yam stalks, combined with the flavorful broth and a hint of ginger's spiciness, creates a delightful taste that is always satisfying.Minazuki Tofu ♡This dish mimics "Minazuki," a traditional sweet from Kyoto used in rituals for health and safety in June. Cut into triangles to represent ice for cooling off, the adzuki beans on top symbolize warding off evil. The rich sesame tofu, along with its thick broth, bursts with sesame flavor in every bite.Deep-Fried Young Sweetfish and Abalone ♡♡The deboned young sweetfish offers a gradual tasting experience of its umami and innards when enjoyed from the tail. The abalone is prepared in a style created by the late Nishikawa of "Kyo-mi," featuring a crispy coating that highlights its exquisite, chewy texture. This dish encapsulates the flavors of summer beautifully.Summer Flavors: Kaze and Torigai ♡♡This sashimi screams summer! The kaze (young sweetfish) has a bouncy texture that releases an incredible umami with each bite. The torigai (bird shell) is so fresh that it curls up when struck against the cutting board, and when enjoyed with salt, it fills the mouth with the wonderful aroma of the sea.Salt-Seared Yaito Bonito ♡♡Kawada-san, who studied the art of straw grilling in Kochi, presents his masterful straw-seared bonito. The fatty, tender flesh is infused with a gentle straw aroma, and when paired with wasabi, the balance of saltiness and richness is astonishing.Hamo and Junsai Soup ♡♡The hamo (pike eel) glistens white in the bowl, with a melt-in-your-mouth texture, complemented by the coolness of the large junsai (water shield). The beauty and flavor blend seamlessly in the bowl, creating a dish that is simply delicious.Swordfish and Shirasu Chili Pepper ♡This swordfish is said to be the size of five fingers, and even the back portion melts in the mouth. The belly section disappears the moment it enters, thanks to the exquisite salt balance that enhances its umami.Kamo Eggplant and Hairy Crab Simmered Together ♡♡In the bowl, the kamo eggplant absorbs the broth and becomes tender, embracing the sweetness and umami of the hairy crab. Such a wonderful pairing is rare. When enjoyed with a touch of sansho pepper, the refreshing aroma transforms the dish, making it even more delightful.Final Rice Dish ① Ginger Rice ♡Lifting the lid from the pot reveals a refreshing aroma of young ginger filling the restaurant. This sight further whets the appetite. The combination of white rice's umami and the refreshing spiciness of the ginger is simply delicious.Final Rice Dish ② Shirasu with Sansho ♡The invigorating kick of sansho pepper combined with the umami of shirasu (whitebait) and white rice creates a dish that is a feast in itself.Final Rice Dish ③ Sea Bream with Sesame Sauce ♡Even in the rich sesame sauce, the bouncy texture of the sea bream stands out, allowing its flavor to shine through.Final Rice Dish ④ Rosanjin Rice ♡♡This dish, favored by the gourmet Kitauji Rosanjin, features finely shredded kombu soaked in bonito broth, mixed until creamy, and seasoned with soy sauce, served over hot white rice. Even in this humid season, it is so light that it feels almost drinkable, making it a simple yet supreme final rice dish.Final Rice Dish ⑤ Beef Shigureni ♡♡I requested this dish at the end of the meal. The sweet and savory flavor of the shigureni resonates deeply within the Japanese DNA, truly touching the heart. Thank you, Kawada-san, for accommodating my request!Honey-Poached Green PlumsFresh green plums poached in honey, mixed with carbonated water. The refreshing vessel and the light acidity of the plums create a delightful experience.Warabi MochiThe sweetness of freshly made warabi mochi.Encountering these familiar dishes during this season strengthens my feeling of "I have safely returned here again." As the seasons become increasingly ambiguous and the world around us changes, I know that coming here will always lead me to those unchanged, beloved dishes. For me, "Nihonbashi Ningyocho Kawada" is a beautiful single flower that will forever bloom in my heart. Thank you for another wonderful encounter tonight.

10 / 10