Located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, near Matsumoto Castle, this French restaurant, Hikariya Nishi, has undergone a complete renovation of the entire establishment.Upon entering the restaurant, the atmosphere of the waiting room and the dining area is exceptional. The private room we used was also a luxurious space that added a special touch. As a member of Relais & Châteaux, every detail is meticulously attended to. Honestly, I didn’t expect such thoroughness.As for the food, at first, I thought it might prioritize appearance and health-conscious elements, but while those aspects were indeed present, the focus on deliciousness and local flavors exceeded my expectations. With such dedication, there’s no room for criticism. I was truly impressed.We enjoyed the dinner course (JPY 22,000, tax included) and a half wine pairing of 6 glasses (JPY 9,000, tax included), totaling JPY 31,000. There was no charge for the private room, likely because we didn’t specifically request it. Considering the quality of the food and service, the price is quite reasonable.The restaurant manager and sommelier provided attentive service in the private room, answering our questions about the dishes accurately and serving the food and wine at perfect timing, which greatly contributed to our satisfaction. The service was even better than at a grand maison.The course consisted of 13 to 14 dishes, skillfully balancing flavors:(1) Hairy Crab Tart (2) Tenryu Sweetfish Spring Roll (3) Salad of 40 Types of Shinshu Vegetables (4) Shiitake and Shallot Terrine (5) Risotto with 57 Types of Wild Vegetables and Herbs (6) Truffle Brioche (7) Lettuce Tower and Two Types of Zucchini (Yellow and Green) (8) Shinshu Carp Ravioli (9) Coarsely Ground Boar and Wild Vegetable Hamburg (10) Abalone and Pheasant Consommé Soup (11) Crème Brûlée, Cream, Ice Cream (12) Cassata, Meyer Lemon Mousse, and Hassaku (13) Petit Fours (14) Herbal Tea The local wild vegetables were abundant. At one point, we were shown a handwritten list of over 50 types of wild vegetables. Additionally, the manager and staff personally sourced some of the ingredients, showcasing the restaurant's collective effort in curating the dishes. This was particularly evident in the salad of 40 types of Shinshu vegetables and the risotto with 57 types of wild vegetables and herbs. Such a feat is rare.Moreover, the boar hamburg was garnished with a branch from a local tree called Kamishiba, which added a wonderful aroma. What a bold attempt! This enhanced the hamburg's fragrance and flavor.In addition to vegetables and herbs, the restaurant also actively uses local animal-based ingredients like sweetfish, carp, and caviar. I felt grateful to have come to Matsumoto and to this restaurant.The cuisine leans towards the innovative side, aiming to encapsulate local flavors without losing their essence, inviting diners to discover the intended message. Conversations with the sommelier to explore these intentions were enjoyable, and the course was personally quite delightful.The wine pairing featured only Shinshu wines (with some Japanese sake). Initially, I was unsure about the higher price, but the selection turned out to be quite impressive, complementing the dishes beautifully. It felt like the choice of Shinshu wine was based on the dishes rather than just local sourcing. Kudos to the sommelier!I’m eager to return during mushroom season.Below are brief comments on each dish, serving as a personal record, so feel free to skip:(1) Hairy Crab Tart with Shinshu Black Pearl Caviar and Jujube A small tart topped with hairy crab and generously adorned with caviar. This caviar is sourced from sturgeon farmed near Lake Shirakaba. The saltiness is mild, allowing the richness of the roe to shine through. Delicious.(2) Tenryu Sweetfish Spring Roll Sweetfish, shiso, cucumber, and melon wrapped in a spring roll. The exquisite flavor and aroma of the sweetfish were somewhat overshadowed, which felt a bit unfortunate.(3) Salad of 40 Types of Shinshu Vegetables A vibrant assortment of 40 types of vegetables, accompanied by a local dish called "Yatara." The finely chopped pickled vegetables in "Yatara" act as a dressing, harmonizing the flavors of all the vegetables. However, it’s quite filling, leading to a somewhat monotonous taste experience, but as a vegetable lover, I enjoyed it.(4) Shiitake and Shallot Terrine A terrine primarily made of shiitake mushrooms. Bold and surprisingly delicious, it lacks the typical shiitake odor and is thick and flavorful. It seems to be meticulously prepared. The accompanying consomme soup made from iwana (char) broth is exceptionally tasty, pairing wonderfully with the shiitake.(5) Risotto with 57 Types of Wild Vegetables and Herbs A risotto made with an impressive variety of 57 wild vegetables and herbs. With so many types, it lacks a distinct flavor profile, resulting in a chaotic taste. However, the depth of flavor and sweetness from the wild vegetables is substantial, creating a unique taste that completely envelops the rice's aroma. The use of parmesan cheese in espuma form was a great choice, complementing the wild vegetables.(6) Truffle Brioche Layers of truffle and celery root wrapped in brioche dough, served with a cream sauce made from the same ingredients. The flavors of truffle and celery root attack from both inside and outside the brioche.(7) Lettuce Tower and Two Types of Zucchini (Yellow and Green) A visually striking dish that draws you in. Surprisingly simple in taste, resembling a cold vegetable salad. However, the accompanying sansho oil sauce is incredibly delicious and pairs well with the zucchini. I couldn’t resist soaking up the sauce with bread and finishing it all.(8) Shinshu Carp Ravioli Ravioli filled with Shinshu carp, ricotta, morel mushrooms, and walnuts, served with a sauce of lactic acid fermented mushrooms and vegetables. The strong flavors somewhat overshadow the carp.(9) Coarsely Ground Boar and Wild Vegetable Hamburg As mentioned earlier, the hamburg is garnished with a branch of Kamishiba. The boar meat is mixed with wild vegetables (tara no me and fuki), and the aroma from the Kamishiba branch adds a striking flavor. This is an experience unlike any other. I was deeply impressed.(10) Abalone and Pheasant Consommé Soup A comforting soup that calms the excitement from the previous dishes, featuring abalone meat and liver in a pheasant consommé soup, topped with purple shiso.(11) Crème Brûlée, Cauliflower and White Chocolate Cream, Coconut and Basil Oil Ice Cream (12) Cassata (Ricotta, Nuts, Dried Fruits, and Sake Lees Ice Cake), Meyer Lemon Mousse, Elderflower Jelly, and Hassaku with Parsley (13) Petit Fours: Visitandine (a traditional pastry from Lorraine, France). With flavors of burnt butter and chocolate, made with Shinshu buckwheat.(14) Herbal Tea Original blend with osmanthus and Uwamizakura, served with syrup containing Uwamizakura. This was delightful and made for a pleasant drink after the course.