Dinner at PRESENTE Sugi (プレゼンテ スギ)

Dinner at PRESENTE Sugi (プレゼンテ スギ)

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Sakura | Ristorante Sugi | A Gastronomic Experience Immersed in the Chef's Worldview of ChibaI visited for lunch after an early morning round of golf, having made a reservation online in advance.This restaurant has been on my radar for a while, recognized as one of Tabelog's top 100 restaurants and a recipient of the Silver Award.Ristorante Sugi offers a unique twist on traditional Italian and French cuisine. It’s not just about enjoying the food; it’s an experience that allows you to immerse yourself in the land, nature, and culture of Chiba as expressed by the chef.Throughout the course, which features around 20 dishes, various elements such as the sea, mountains, fields, fermentation, and even insects are represented in the cuisine.■ LocationLocated in Sakura City, Chiba Prefecture. Although it’s a bit far from the city center, many guests, like us, drive here, while others take a taxi from Sakura Station.■ ReservationI made a reservation through TableCheck before my visit.■ OrderSugi Course■ DishesThe course begins with the signature tomato candy.Next is the Spanish mackerel served with a presentation that mimics the fish being caught."Blessings of the Earth" combines honey from Japanese honeybees with buffalo milk.One dish inspired by Shingen Mochi features French toast, foie gras, and mulberries harvested from the mountains of Chiba.The "Chiba Nian" dish presents lobster resembling raw chocolate, showcasing Chef Sugi's playful creativity right from the start.A standout was the "Exciting School Lunch," which combines fried bread with black beans, black sesame, peanuts, and powdered insects. It’s fascinating how the insects take on a peanut flavor while still being delicious.The cauliflower dish also left a strong impression. The finely chopped cauliflower is sautéed for three hours to concentrate its flavors, and a mousse made from its cooking water is added, showcasing the chef's meticulous approach.The Tokyo Bay sea bass is paired with pumpkin, tomato jelly, caviar, and shiso oil.The anglerfish is fried after being cooked sous-vide, accompanied by fermented purple cabbage powder and fermented vegetables, demonstrating that anglerfish is not just a winter delicacy.Wild edible plants used in the dishes, such as yomogi, watercress, nobiru, and ukogi, are presented as part of the experience, which is characteristic of this restaurant.I was particularly impressed by the way flavors were constructed. While the base techniques reflect Italian cuisine, instead of relying on seasonings, the chef complements missing elements with other ingredients.For saltiness, the chef uses the power of fermentation and the umami of seafood, while acidity and aroma are expressed through combinations of ingredients.It’s clear that this is not just creative cooking; it’s built on a solid logic.In the bonito dish, the chef controls the boiling point with a special machine while combining it with pickles, yuzu jam, and yogurt.The sea bass is served with a mixture of namero (a type of minced fish) and shiso, wrapped in puff pastry with a sauce made from fermented napa cabbage.The "Sugi Sushi R Risotto" features mackerel from Kamo River, local mustard, and seaweed from Futtsu.The main dish is the tenderloin of Yachiyo Black Beef, which is carefully cooked at low temperatures after marinating to retain moisture, and finished with a smoky aroma from Yamazaki 12-year whiskey.The meal concludes with thick noodles paired with a paste made from raw karasumi (dried mullet roe) and sea bass.Dessert is an airy ice made from red-fleshed melon.The entire course was filled with Chef Sugi's unique ideas.■ Service, Atmosphere, and ClienteleChef Sugi personally explains each dish, sharing the background and inspiration behind them, creating an experience rather than just a meal.The restaurant has about three tables.On this day, guests at the same time shared reactions and explanations of the dishes, which created a lively atmosphere.I found myself seated among guests with differing values, and as someone who prefers a quieter dining experience, the loud reactions from the table next to me detracted from my enjoyment.This aspect may vary in preference among guests.Given the location, I believe many guests arrive by car.■ Overall EvaluationRistorante Sugi is a one-of-a-kind restaurant that expresses love for the nature, culture, and ingredients of Chiba through its cuisine.The chef's creativity and technical skills are exceptional, particularly in how he constructs flavors without relying on seasonings, instead using combinations of ingredients.However, this restaurant is not just about the food; it’s also about experiencing the chef's worldview.This perspective is quite strong, and preferences may vary among guests.Personally, I felt there was a lot of information to digest, but I still respect the chef's serious commitment to expressing Chiba through his cooking.This is more than just a place to eat; it’s a restaurant where you can experience the Chiba that exists in Chef Sugi's mind.

8 / 10