Dr. Jones Restaurant Metairie

I had my doubts about tapioca croquettes with Camembert, but it was at @drjonesrestaurant and I remembered past surprises here. I trust this kitchen.

The payoff was another delight, with the creamy cheese gently binding the savory-soft pop of the tiny tapioca bulbs under crisp fritter shells.

My early line on Dr. Jones was essentially that this is a chef-led diner, a great lunch spot run by a pair of fine dining chefs without the fine dining trappings.

It’s still a tiny spot, but it has grown into a fuller version of itself with extended evening hours for dinner. It’s all about elevated technique in a casual setting.

Heirloom tomato salad had XO breadcrumbs that functioned like a gratin without impinging on the summer freshness.

Steak au poivre felt like a summer-weight edition of the French classic, with the juicy bite of a tropical chile pepper sauce cutting through.

Gnocchi had just the right soft, wispy texture next to the woodsy chew of maitake mushrooms and a delicate truffle dashi, an umami-booster closer to broth than sauce.

Don’t forget to BYOB; this food pleads for pairings.

You can go big with New Orleans dining, from the high-end institutions to the latest new spots catching buzz. But there’s a special pleasure in finding that small, low-key restaurant cooking wonderful food and keeping things affordable.

This is one I revisited recently that could be easy to overlook but should definitely be on your list to try.

Link in my bio has the story with more examples

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