Lovechild La Crosse

For this dessert obsessive, cold weather is synonymous with apple cake, and the one I enjoyed this weekend on the @lovechildrestaurant menu definitely falls into the Standard-Setter category. It’s a go-to cake for French home cooks, one of those classic recipes that easily transforms familiar ingredients into something memorable and delicious. The baker at Lovechild really gets it, packing the tender, not-too-sweet cake with tart-ish apples that retain a bit of their snappy crunch. Crowning touches include a pool of rum sauce — fragrant, not boozy — and cinnamon-infused whipped cream, a gesture for those who equate “apple” with “cinnamon.” The dreamy results are reminiscent of what I would have encountered on the dessert tray at Lucia’s Restaurant, a compliment that ranks pretty high in my Kind Words arsenal. My next baking goal is to replicate this cake. I was also delighted to encounter persimmon. The fruit doesn’t appear on a lot of Midwestern menus, so when it does, I’m all in. There’s a great backstory to this particular salad: the kitchen staffer who prepares Lovechild’s (excellent) pasta has a relative in southern California with a persimmon tree in their yard; that thoughtful, generous soul ships the fruit to the restaurant. Such beauties! They radiate the rich orange-reds of an intense sunset, with a firm, slightly juicy texture and a mellow sweetness. Chef Jay Sparks wisely pairs them with a luscious mozzarella and vividly peppery arugula, finishing with bright pops of mint and crunchy candied pine nuts. Such a lovely winter homage to the summertime tomato/mozzarella/basil salad. #lovechildrestaurant #lacrossewi #greatriverroad #driftless #driftlesswisconsin #applecake #dessert #persimmon Less