This week’s @sundaytimesireland restaurant review: LASAIR, the reimagined (and relocated) @finnlough_dining in Fermanagh 🔥

In an unusual prompt from us in these pages, we heartily recommend making the most of a trip to @finnlough and spending two hours before dinner at the Elements spa trail, which we think is one of the best experiences of its kind in Ireland and both the self-guided, private spa trail (punctuated by different bothies in the forest) and the restaurant are open to non-residents to experience, so if your budget doesn’t extend to bubble domes and sleeping under the stars you can still experience some of the best aspects of this lakeside resort

We write “[Lasair, meaning flame or spark as Gaeilge] has a female-led kitchen overseen by the South African chef Kristin Reagon @kristins_creation, complemented by the Swedish restaurant manager @marion.falk running the floor, and Reagon’s eclectic, globe-traversing menu jumps from Japan to France, Korea to the Middle East, India to Africa, organised by tastes — salty, floral, bitter, acidic, umami and sweet — with each section offering a selection of smaller dishes to share. There is no set formula; choose your own dining adventure and design a makeshift tasting menu tailored to your preferences.”

We find the spark of something incredibly special in this resort restaurant, that if fanned in the right direction and tamed skilfully could well blaze a trail in the Irish food industry…

Read the entire review on TheTimes app or website or pick up a paper in print today 🗞️ Less