Tenth Time’s a Feast
There are restaurants you visit. And then there are the rare few you return to — religiously, ritualistically. Last night was my tenth dinner here. The first with my brother. And once again, this kitchen reminded me: they don’t run out of magic.
The Leeu Estate olives opened like a quiet prelude. Then: oyster with carne... More
Tenth Time’s a Feast
There are restaurants you visit. And then there are the rare few you return to — religiously, ritualistically. Last night was my tenth dinner here. The first with my brother. And once again, this kitchen reminded me: they don’t run out of magic.
The Leeu Estate olives opened like a quiet prelude. Then: oyster with carne asada and grapefruit — a bold, beautiful overture of contrast and silk.
Namibian snow crab, delicate and cool. Then the langoustine salad with caviar (of course we said yes).
Crayfish, peri-peri, ponzu — a fearless plate. Then yellowfin tuna with cardamom and coconut, followed by a nostalgic ‘viskop’ chowder that warmed like memory.
A palate punch: kalamansi and worm salt, sharp, wild, brilliant.
Then the choice: coal-roasted lamb with salsa verde and kapokbos, or Karoo wagyu with truffle (we did both). Unapologetically indulgent.
Cheese followed — smoked Stanford with pear and mustard — and a gentle close with stone fruit, crème fraîche and spelt. Then, as always, the charming Sweets Trolley, rolling in like joy on wheels.
Thank you, Peter Duncan and Culinary Director James Gaag, for another unforgettable journey. And to Head Sommelier Barry Scholfield — your pairings are poetry in a glass.
Ten dinners in, and still I’m hungry for more.
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