In search of Japan’s best Onsen Ryokan —
Naoshima Roka 直島旅館ろ霞(Shikoku)

Access: 5/10
Setting/surrounding area: 8/10 (ocean, museums)
Activities: 8/10 (sightseeing, cycling, art museums)
Rooms: 7/10
Onsen: 7/10 (private semi-outdoor bath)
Other facilities: 5/10 (restaurant, lounge)
Food: 8/10
Wine/sake list: 7/10
Service: 8/10
Foreigner friendliness: 10/10 (English speaking staff)
Overall: 73/100

Pros: brand new and beautifully designed ryokan; spacious room; private outdoor bath; guests can choose between kaiseki and a proper sushi meal at the counter; decent wine list
Cons: getting to Naoshima from Tokyo is not that easy; very cold rooms, not well insulated; no onsen water; meal portions are a bit small
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