In search of Japan’s best Onsen Ryokan — Setouchi Retreat Aonagi 瀬戸内リトリー青凪, Ehime

Access: 7/10
Setting/surrounding area: 8/10 (mountain, golf course)
Activities: 7/10 (golf, sightseeing)
Rooms: 9/10
Onsen: 8/10 (private open air onsen in some rooms)
Other facilities: 9/10 (restaurant, spa, art gallery; shop, lounge, swimming pools, golf course)
Food: 7/10
Wine/sake list: 7/10
Service: 10/10
Foreigner friendliness: 10/10 (English speaking staff, English menu)
Overall: 82/100

Pros: beautiful architecture designed by Ando Tadao; adjacent golf course, easy access from Matsuyama; spacious rooms; indoor pool & sauna bookable for private use; proper sommelier service
Cons: guest room decor is a bit old school; limited activities if you don’t have a car or don’t play golf; private onsen would have been nicer if it were more “open air”; the art gallery was practically empty
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