Everything I’ve been told about British food is a lie. Oysters with world-class character. Seafood that honors an island nation. Strong local wines. Ales and ciders that recalibrate my sense of the brewer’s art. Behold the Holly Bush in Hampstead; The Owl in Camber Sands near Rye; The Mayflower in London. Haven’t even gotten round to Indian. That’s happening in Soho tonight. Cheers. Less