Brothers Ari and Pablo Schor preside over the dreamy corner @restaurantbeba in Montreal, fewer than 30 seats inside in winter. You’ll want reservations.

You’ll also want to find time for Ari’s lush foie gras, piped into a dried date and sprinkled with toasted pistachios; folds of brined beef ham, nestled next to a tiny skewer of guidilla peppers, olives and anchovies; and slices of cured mackerel splayed on a crisp sesame bun, spread with horseradish and butter. The last appetizer is a concert of flavors that tastes like an exquisite bagel.

“The menu is based on our experiences,” says Ari, who occupies the small open kitchen. His cooking weaves the brothers’ native Argentina, Jewish ancestry, adopted Canadian city and a pivotal months-long trip to Italy and Spain — hence the pasta and, with the beef ham, the Spanish-branded Gilda. (Beba, in the residential neighborhood of Verdun, is named for the owners’ grandmother Vera, the baby of her family.)

The secret to the Schors’ success? “If you do something niche, not just delicious,” says Ari, “people will take notice.” A packed and happy dining room says as much. Less