What stood out immediately was the change in kiji (生地). The batter is now perceptibly thicker and noticeably crunchier than before, yet without tipping into heaviness. Rather than masking the ingredients, it adds an additional, deliberate layer of texture — a crisp outer shell that contrasts with the softness, juiciness, or creaminess within. This adjustment brings more definition to each bite and gives the course a stronger rhythmic structure.

The ingredient selection remained seasonally precise: silky nasu, molten hamaguri, sweet white carrot of French lineage grown in Japan, and fragrant small fish wrapped in yuko leaf, where citrus aromatics gently lifted the palate. Fukinotō provided a clean, controlled bitterness, while the botan ebi was fried with absolute restraint, retaining a translucent core that showcased its natural sweetness. Throughout the meal, oil management was exemplary — light on the tongue, aromatic, and never intrusive.

What made the experience particularly rewarding was witnessing the continued development of the chef himself. Having just turned 30, the master already shows a confident hand and a clear sense of direction. This was not change for the sake of novelty, but refinement driven by intention and understanding.

Tempura Asanuma is maturing gracefully. The cooking has gained clarity and texture, while maintaining elegance and restraint. It is genuinely exciting to watch a young chef grow in real time — and even more exciting to eat his food as he does.

A truly great meal.
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