The $280 menu at Enclos in Sonoma starts dramatically with an infusion of melon and camomile quickly followed by four vibrant bites (including spiny lobster styled like a wreath). The menu builds from there: 11 squashes drizzled with olive oil, amberjack, clam chowder custard, a slab of 60-day dry aged tuna belly diced into tiny cubes, quail, beef and... More