La Bottglieria del Ruché was not my first choice. It was not even my third, but this quaint-from-the-outside enoteca set into a street corner sharper than a bird’s beak in bucolic Castagnole Monferrato caught our eye while driving passed almost daily.

La Bottiglieria’s decor feels homemade and knowingly haphazard, organic and crafty, busy and... More