This week’s @sundaytimesireland review, in print today: @brightonroad18 in #Foxrock, in which we pose the question “have we all but lost restaurants perched above shops?”

“In an era of crazy key money and obscene rents and rates while prime spots set snapped up like prized turbot or blue fin tuna intercepted before ever making it to market, spaces like these are the restaurant equivalent of a granny flat, a compromise and, while economical, mostly invisible. However even as an endangered species they remain the sign of a vibrant and bustling neighbourhood…

While ground-floor perches are prime real estate sometimes the best stuff is sequestered upstairs. A benchmark of such is found on Brighton Road in Foxrock, a brilliant bistro (formerly Bistro One for 30 years) which is currently sailing successfully into its fourth decade in-situ and reminding us of two key lessons: the classics never age, and it’s always worth looking up…”

Across two visits - one midweek and one Sunday lunch at either ends of summer - we tried everything from crab on toast, spring rolls, vol au vents and chicken schnitzel to pan-fried hake, pork chops, roast beef and banoffee… it’s clear to see how this space has been so locally loved for over 30 years

#irishfood #dublinrestaurants #foodcritic Less