“In Parma, the air is dry, a wind comes off the ocean, so it’s like salinated air blowing through the valley and it picks up scent from the chestnut blossoms.”
Roberto Fracchioni waxes lyrical in explaining why Prosciutto di Parma has its distinct flavour. As spokesperson for the EU consortium promoting Prosciutto di Parma and Grana Padano, he demonstrated these products in the best way possible — a media dinner at Autostrada restaurant with the products embedded in each course.
His timing, too, was right on, mere days after the EU invited Canada to become the first “associate” EU member. Friends with benefits, so to speak. Fracchioni hopes it might translate into loosening import regulations and trade quotas on Italian foods.
The dinner spoke more deliciously than words: Antipasto of straight-up Prosciutto di Parma and Grana Padano. Toasted focaccia with stracciatella, aged balsamic, and Prosciutto di Parma. Agnolotti with ricotta, prosciutto and Grana Padano. Cod saltimbocca with hispi cabbage layered with Grana Padano crema and Grana Padano frico. Chocolate cheesecake with Grana Padano gelato.
Some takeaways: Grana Padano is lactose free and made with a mix of whole and skimmed milk. It’s softer and more buttery than Parmigiano Reggiano and creamy when cooked. “It’s meant to be enjoyed and is best enjoyed like this,” Fracchioni says, chipping a chunk from the wheel and popping it into his mouth.
Prosciutto di Parma is a natural product — pork, salt, air, and time. You can find it at Costco (look for the crown symbol). Eat, do not throw out the fat. “It’s like buying a Ferrari, then yanking the engine out and putting a hamster wheel in there to drive your car,” says Fracchioni. “It’s where the flavour comes from. You need it to balance the meat.”

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