Dinner at Lito (Lito)

Dinner at Lito (Lito)

at Lito (Lito) on 17 July 2026
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In the sweltering summer heat of Nagoya, a short walk from Hisaya Odori Station leads you to a building with orange bricks that softly reflect the sunlight. Ascending the stairs to the second floor, away from the city's hustle and bustle, you encounter a heavy wooden door exuding tranquility. After making a reservation, I stepped through the noren at noon, and was warmly welcomed right on time. The interior features a beautiful round wooden table and a gray-themed decor, harmonizing in a spacious area of about 15 seats, enveloped in soft lighting. Just gazing at the seasonal menu placed on the table fills me with excitement for the time ahead. In this serene atmosphere, infused with the chef and sommelier's aesthetic sensibility, the supreme course celebrating summer quietly begins.■ Corn Served in a rustic yet high-quality terracotta deep bowl, this dish is so beautiful that it makes my heart race at first sight. At the bottom lies a fluffy and smooth corn mousse, airy and light, topped with a beautifully transparent amber-colored consomme jelly. At the center, large caviar is heaped, surrounded by vibrant yellow and orange marigold petals that bloom like a grand flower. The cool temperature releases the sweet aroma of roasted corn, while a tangy scent from fermented pineapple lightly follows. I was overwhelmed from the first bite by the incredible effort that went into simmering about 100 ears of corn for 12 hours, capturing the essence and fragrance of 5 to 6 ears in a single dish. As I scooped all the layers into my mouth with a spoon, the rich and pure sweetness of the corn melted away, accentuated by the pleasant saltiness of the caviar. The sharp acidity from the fermented pineapple transformed the rich flavor into a refreshing summer aftertaste. The complex umami of the roasted corn and fermentation lingered long after, making this dish alone worth the visit.■ Pike Conger On a wide plate that evokes the warmth of earth, a dish is artfully arranged in three dimensions. At the bottom, finely chopped island okra is placed, topped with freshly fried pike conger, accompanied by a mustard sauce with fermented lettuce and frilly lettuce, crowned with a fluffy white lime espuma. The moment it arrives, the fresh and zesty lime contrasts beautifully with the warm aroma of the freshly fried fritters. The batter is incredibly light; when I cut into it, the outside is crispy and fragrant, while the inside remains moist and fluffy. As I take a bite, the crispy and airy texture of the fish mingles with the refreshing lime foam, and as I chew, the deep acidity of the fermented lettuce and mustard harmonizes perfectly with the stickiness of the island okra. Despite being fried, it feels light and embodies the essence of summer.■ Sweet Shrimp In a deep bowl adorned with a gentle pink marbled pattern, a clear red lactic acid fermented tomato sauce is spread. Neatly rolled, small Sanuki somen is placed in the center, accompanied by aged sweet shrimp, shredded rhubarb pickles, and delicate purple shiso flowers. The refreshing aroma of the shiso flowers and the sweet and tangy scent of the fermented tomato waft gently in the cool air. The chilled somen glides smoothly, intertwining with the melt-in-your-mouth sweetness and rich umami of the aged sweet shrimp. The dimensional acidity from the lactic acid fermented tomato and the crisp texture of the rhubarb gently unify the dish, providing a wonderful coolness on a scorching day.■ Swordfish In the center of a matte white deep plate, a vibrant orange sauce made from white beans, shellfish broth, and tomatoes is laid down. On top, the charcoal-grilled swordfish from Kagoshima is placed, hiding tender eggplant underneath. The fragrant aroma from the freshly grilled fish and the earthy scent of mushroom powder scattered on the plate intersect with the refreshing notes of rosemary. The skin of the swordfish is crispy and fragrant, while the flesh is moist and fluffy, perfectly cooked. As I scoop a piece with a spoon, the combination of the skin's crispiness and the fish's sweetness melds with the richness of the white beans and the umami of the shellfish broth, beautifully enhanced by the sweetness of the eggplant.■ Bread The fragrant ciabatta, rich in the aroma of wheat, is served at just the right moment. It allows me to savor every drop of the sauce infused with the flavors of the swordfish and meat dishes, deepening my overall satisfaction with the course.■ Aichi Beef In the center of a calm black plate, a smooth potato puree and glossy fond de veau sauce are layered, boldly topped with grilled Aichi beef, showcasing a moist and glistening red cross-section. Beneath the meat lies butter-sautéed chrysanthemum greens, with vibrant snap peas on the side, and black garlic and fermented blueberries adorning the top. From the warm plate, a pleasant smoky aroma of charcoal and straw rises, stirring an overwhelming appetite alongside the rich fragrance of the meat. The aged Aichi beef is finished to a glossy rose color in the center, and the knife glides effortlessly through it. As I take a bite, the chewy texture of the meat releases a burst of rich umami. The exquisite acidity of the fermented blueberries and the smoky aroma from the straw highlight the meat's flavor, while the smooth potato and rich fond de veau create supreme satisfaction. The slight bitterness of the chrysanthemum greens and the texture of the snap peas prevent any heaviness, leaving a perfect aftertaste as the climax of the course.■ Squid On a beautifully marbled deep plate, freshly made homemade pasta is coated in a pale green zucchini sauce. Surrounding it are intricately cut squid shaped like flowers, topped with three-dimensional zucchini blossoms that have been fried to a caramel color, and the entire dish is sprinkled with golden bottarga powder. The powerful aroma of garlic wafts from the hot pasta, while the richness of the bottarga and the refreshing scent of fermented lemon spread in layers. The chewy texture and elasticity of the freshly made pasta, combined with the sweet and intense umami of the squid, take my breath away. The crispy texture of the zucchini blossoms bursts forth, creating a striking contrast of textures and flavors. Finally, the sharp acidity of the fermented lemon neatly ties everything together, leaving me deeply intoxicated by the chef's meticulously calculated composition.■ Melon In a white bowl layered on an emerald green plate, a yellow melon soda sauce containing ripe melon juice and carbonation is poured, with a beautiful spherical yogurt ice cream floating in the center. From the cool sauce, the rich aroma of melon and the floral notes of elderflower rise with the effervescence of the bubbles. Taking a bite of both the sauce and the ice cream at once, the carbonation bursts in my mouth, unleashing an intense melon flavor and refreshing sensation, creating an unprecedented dessert experience. Next, the creamy richness and acidity of the yogurt ice cream gently blend, and the juicy flesh of the cut melon and jelly emerge, returning to the refreshing essence of melon at the end. It was a perfect conclusion filled with storytelling and surprise.■ Mango On a chic rectangular plate, a freshly baked financier shaped like a cacao pod, made with Amazon cacao, is presented. Between the layers, homemade mango jam and vibrant Miyazaki mango are sandwiched. The warm dough releases the fragrant aroma of browned butter and cacao, intertwining with the elegant sweetness of the mango. As I hold it and take a bite, the crispy texture on the outside and the moist richness inside burst forth, beautifully merging the juicy sweetness of the fresh mango with the acidity of the jam and the bitter depth of the cacao. It was a light yet satisfying finale, a blissful conclusion.■ Iced Coffee With a pale and beautiful hue, this iced coffee is rich in aroma, with a mild bitterness that makes it easy to drink. It was the perfect cup to gently cool down the warm aftertaste of the course.Through the technique of "fermentation," Lito maximizes the potential of its ingredients. From the intensely rich corn and Aichi beef to the vibrant textures and flavors of the squid, and the surprising melon dessert, every dish was a remarkable experience etched deeply in my memory. Enveloped in the drama of aromas and temperatures unfolding in a tranquil space, I found a special reason to want to knock on this door again with each passing season.

10 / 10