Time flies like an arrow. Lately, I've been feeling anxious about how quickly time passes. It's hard to believe that two and a half years have gone by since my last visit. So, on the second night of my trip to Koriyama, I had the pleasure of dining at the renowned restaurant Namiki's branch, Ran Tei ~ Bibi An.Since it was June, I passed through a ring of reeds at the entrance, symbolizing the summer purification ritual, to cleanse myself before entering the restaurant. I took my usual seat at the counter and began by quenching my thirst with a refreshing, unblemished draft beer served in a pilsner glass.The first dish was a corn tofu made from the naturally sweet white corn "Pure Sweet," served on a lotus leaf, accompanied by refreshing water shield seasoned with sesame sauce. This marked the beginning of the June performance at Igarashi Theater. The eight-part appetizer featured a dish that reflected the spirit of the young chef Igarashi, who honed his skills in Gion, with a blue maple leaf symbolizing his lineage.Instead of the red maple, the still-green blue maple suggests a sense of subtraction, perhaps? The presentation evoked the elegance of Kyoto, and even a young chef who has spent a few years absorbing the atmosphere of Kyoto would struggle to replicate it. Next, I was served a "Red Sea Cucumber" resembling Mickey Mouse, garnished with freshly grated wasabi. The flavor of this Hokkaido red sea cucumber was rich and distinct, with a sweetness that lingered after swallowing, truly a unique experience reminiscent of the "Makkura" sea pineapple.The highlight of the meal was a clear soup featuring Hokkaido scallop dumplings, crunchy mountain vegetables, and steamed abalone from Tokiwa, all enhanced with a sprinkle of yuzu. The clear broth, primarily made from kombu dashi and supported by the first extraction of bonito dashi, permeated my senses with its exquisite flavor.The sashimi course featured two arrangements: the first half included grilled "Hatsu Katsuo" with ginger and garlic chips, while the second half offered a refreshing taste of summer tuna, thickly sliced "Hon Maguro," and "Hon Kyu-e" with multiple hidden cuts to enhance the flavor. The "Shobudai" squid was also included, providing a strong sweetness and umami.For the grilled dish, I enjoyed the Ayu from Gujo Hachiman, seasoned with plenty of wasabi, and I savored the fish from head to tail without using any tare sauce, as it was perfectly grilled to tenderness. Next, I was introduced to the local brand of black-haired wagyu, "Uneme Beef," which was grilled over charcoal, allowing me to enjoy the natural flavor and sweetness of the meat.The skill in grilling both fish and meat was evident, and I continued with a tasting of "Karasumi Mochi" paired with grilled "Shiroko" from fugu and grilled "Hokyokai" clams, topped with shaved karasumi, a dish that was a delightful indulgence. Following this, I experienced the specialty of Chef Igarashi, who previously ran a sushi restaurant. He prepared "Hon Kyu-e" sushi right in front of me, using red vinegar rice, along with two types of "Kohada," "Shobudai," and medium fatty "Hon Maguro" nigiri, as well as gunkan rolls and tekka maki, generously topped with sea urchin from Rebun Island.After enjoying two types of fluffy and tender "Anago" nigiri, I was served "Shiro Imo Suki" with a silver sauce, followed by rice cooked in a clay pot with myoga, accompanied by lightly pickled "Mizunasu" from Senshu, homemade pickled plum, and "Chirimen Jako." To finish, I indulged in a dessert of red bean, agar, matcha gelato, and water dumplings, completing the special omakase course for June.Throughout the meal, I savored the flavors of Fukushima's representative sake, "Hiroki" Junmai Ginjo, and "Sharak" Junmai Ginjo, along with a red wine from Southern Italy, "Colosi Salina Rosso," and a glass of "MACALLAN." I was overwhelmed with gratitude as I enjoyed delightful conversations with the legendary chef Igarashi and the hostess, making for an unforgettable experience.
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