Dinner at くろ崎

Dinner at くろ崎

at Kurosaki on 14 April 2024
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The hamaguri that Kurosaki-san sources are huge and tender - almost an oxymoron for this type of clam. To be honest, I'm not sure I can think of another sushiya that serves hamaguri of higher quality. Last April, it was part of the tsumami, served in poaching liquid. But last November was even more special - the ni-hama served over rice that was soaked in a sweet dashi with clear flavors of sudachi. It's exceedingly rare to find this hamaguri prep at modern sushiya, even in Japan, and it's a style probably made most famous by the late Mikkio-san at #宮葉, one of Tokyo's oldest sushiya. Seeing this style appear at a modern shop like Kurosaki is in some ways surprising, but also precisely in line with Kurosaki-san's focus on simplicity and his frequent nods to tradition.