Dinner at L'ÉTERRE

Dinner at L'ÉTERRE

at L'ETERRE (L'ETERRE) on 1 March 2024
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At the heart of Tokyo's vibrant culinary scene lay an extraordinary dining experience that expertly bridged the delicate balance between Japanese tradition and French culinary finesse. This exceptional establishment, renowned for its innovative approach to Kaiseki cuisine, harnessed the finest ingredients sourced from esteemed suppliers such as the celebrated fishmonger Maeda-san in Yaizu. The chef's philosophy centered around the harmonious integration of predominantly Japanese ingredients with sophisticated French techniques, resulting in a culinary journey that was both authentic and avant-garde.

The meal unfolded with a series of meticulously crafted dishes, each telling its own story of flavor, texture, and seasonal sensitivity. The journey began with **Topinambour (Jerusalem Artichoke) (菊芋)**, perfectly calibrated and accompanied by added chips for a delightful textural contrast. This was followed by the **Hotaruika (Firefly Squid) (富山産・ホタルイカ)**, a seasonal delight that burst with umami, complemented by a cracker that juxtaposed the squid's softness beautifully.

The **Tachiuo (Swordfish) (焼津産 太刀魚)**, aged for several days and prepared tempura style with a light soda water batter and Jerry vinegar miso, exemplified the chef's inventive approach to traditional techniques. The **Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper) with Asperges Blanches (White Asparagus) (焼津産 金目鯛 ホワイトアスパラガス)** presented a sashimi course where the barely cooked fish, with its thick cut and mochi-like texture, paired exquisitely with French asparagus and a hint of mayonnaise.

Further enriching the menu were **Coquilles Saint-Jacques (Scallops) and Hokkigai (Surf Clam) (標津産 殻付き帆立貝)** in Beurre Blanche, showcasing raw cores with perfect textures, and the **Daurade (Sea Bream) with Spring Cabbage (焼津産 真鯛春キャベツ)**, where instead of a traditional sauce, an innovative use of panko breadcrumbs added a delightful twist.

The meal ventured into meat with **Agneau (Lamb) from Sisteron (シストロン産 仔羊インカのめざめ)**, meticulously cooked for two hours before finishing on the binchotan grill, ensuring juicy perfection with flawlessly rendered fat. The sequence gracefully transitioned to a **Pâtes (Pasta) course (〆パスタ)**, featuring noodles in uni sauce with kani, where the pasta, sourced from a noodle shop on Awaji Island, represented a modern twist on traditional udon.

The dining experience culminated with a dessert course that was both refined and revelatory. The **Comté 30mois Gâteau au Fromage (30-Month Aged Comté Cheese Cake) (コンテ 30ヶ月チーズケーキ)**, reminiscent of a Basque cheese cake but distinctly less sweet, offered a unique and original flavor profile that paired beautifully with the **Sorbet au Lait de Jersey (Jersey Milk Sorbet) (久美浜ジャージー牛乳/Sorbet au Lait de Jersey)**, prepared in a paco jet for creamy perfection. The meal concluded with a refreshing note of **Alps Strawberries (アルプス苺/Fraise)**, leaving a lasting impression of the meal's exquisite balance between innovation and tradition.

This establishment stood as a testament to the chef's mastery in blending the intricate nuances of Japanese and French cuisines, offering an unparalleled dining experience that was both a celebration of the seasons and a homage to culinary artistry. It was, without doubt, one of Tokyo's finest Japanese French fusion restaurants, offering a memorable experience that resonated with the essence of both cultures.

French Japanese
Japanese Fusion
9 / 10