Dinner at Hiša Franko

Dinner at Hiša Franko

at Hisa Franko on 16 August 2024
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Ana Roš is a self-taught chef who has risen to international prominence, transforming her restaurant, Hiša Franko, into a world-renowned culinary destination. Situated in the scenic Soča Valley near Kobarid, Slovenia, Hiša Franko boasts a rich history, but it was Roš’s unique vision that brought it global recognition.

Born on December 31, 1972, in Šempeter pri Gorici, Slovenia, Ana Roš grew up in a family that placed a strong emphasis on education and culture. Her father was a doctor, and her mother a journalist, which led Roš to excel in academics, particularly languages. Initially, she pursued a career in diplomacy, studying international relations at the University of Trieste in Italy.

Roš’s life took an unexpected turn when she met Valter Kramar, a sommelier whose family owned Hiša Franko. Though she had no formal culinary training, Roš became increasingly involved in the family business. Discovering a passion for cooking, she decided to take over the kitchen and taught herself to cook, drawing inspiration from local ingredients and traditions.

Under Roš’s leadership, Hiša Franko evolved from a traditional inn into an innovative and highly respected restaurant. Her approach to cooking is deeply connected to the local environment of the Soča Valley. She emphasizes “zero kilometer” sourcing, meaning that almost all ingredients used in her dishes are sourced from the immediate area. This includes wild herbs and plants from the surrounding mountains, fish from the Soča River, and meats and dairy from nearby farms.

Roš’s cuisine is a modern interpretation of traditional Slovenian dishes, combining contemporary techniques with the essence of the region’s flavors. Her menus change with the seasons, reflecting the freshest available ingredients. This approach not only supports local farmers and producers but also ensures that each dish is an authentic representation of the Slovenian terroir.

Ana Roš gained international recognition in 2016 when she was featured in Netflix’s *Chef’s Table*. The series highlighted her innovative cooking and deep connection to the Slovenian landscape, bringing global attention to Hiša Franko. Following this, she was named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2017 by *The World’s 50 Best Restaurants*, solidifying her place among the world’s top chefs.

Hiša Franko received its first Michelin star in 2020, when the Michelin Guide began covering Slovenia, marking a significant milestone for the restaurant and Slovenian cuisine. The restaurant was awarded a second star in 2023, and most recently, it achieved the prestigious third Michelin star. This third star is a rare and significant honor, placing Hiša Franko among the world’s most elite dining establishments. It reflects the consistency, creativity, and high standards that Ana Roš and her team maintain.

Ana Roš’s culinary philosophy focuses on sustainability, local sourcing, and innovation. She is committed to preserving Slovenia’s culinary traditions while pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved with local ingredients. Her work has been instrumental in elevating Slovenia’s profile on the global culinary stage, making the country a destination for food enthusiasts worldwide.

Beyond her work at Hiša Franko, Roš is an influential figure in the culinary community, advocating for sustainable practices and the importance of local food cultures. Her journey from aspiring diplomat to three-Michelin-starred chef is a story of passion, perseverance, and creativity, inspiring chefs and food lovers around the world.

Under Ana Roš’s leadership, Hiša Franko is not just a restaurant; it’s a reflection of Slovenia’s rich culinary heritage and a symbol of its future. The restaurant’s location in the serene Soča Valley adds to its unique appeal, offering a dining experience that is deeply rooted in tradition and innovative in its execution.

We recently had the pleasure of dining at Hiša Franko, and our experience was remarkable. The menu showcased a thoughtful selection of dishes that effectively utilized the region's fresh and local ingredients, highlighting the skill and creativity of the kitchen.

The lineup of starters was impressive, with each dish offering something unique. The "50 Shades of Red" theme was intriguing and delivered well in execution. The garden leaves with brown butter emulsion, quail egg, and Istrian summer truffle was a standout, setting the tone for the meal with its balanced flavors. The celeriac with crab and foraged greens, accented by mustard seeds, was another highlight—earthy and refreshing.

Among the courses, the pasta dishes left a lasting impression. The tagliolini with clams and melon was especially memorable, thanks to the surprising depth of flavor. The use of coffee oil added an unexpected but welcome twist, bringing out the umami in a way I hadn’t experienced before. It was so well-executed that we decided to order another round of pasta dishes, a decision everyone at the table was happy with.

The HF classics, like the hay-baked potato with fenugreek and roasted yeast-infused sour cream, along with the corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese and smoked trout roe, lived up to their reputation. These dishes highlighted the restaurant’s ability to take simple, high-quality ingredients and elevate them with precise technique.

The main courses were equally satisfying. The trout, a local favorite, was prepared with care and respect for the ingredient. The roebuck with oyster and kiwi was a bold combination that worked surprisingly well, balancing richness with acidity.

Desserts did not disappoint either. The dumpling with caramelized walnut, roasted apples, spices, and fonduta of local cheese was a well-crafted blend of sweetness and spice, perfectly ending the meal.

During our meal, we opted to order wine by the bottle but also decided to try the juice pairing. It turned out to be one of the best juice pairings I’ve ever experienced. Each juice was thoughtfully curated, complementing the dishes perfectly with vibrant and nuanced flavors. The juices brought out different elements in the dishes, adding another layer of enjoyment to the meal. It was a refreshing and innovative alternative to traditional wine pairings, and I would highly recommend it to anyone dining at Hiša Franko.

Overall, Hiša Franko delivered a dining experience that was both innovative and deeply connected to the local terroir. The dishes were well-conceived and executed, with each course offering something distinct and memorable. The juice pairing was a standout aspect of the evening, contributing to an already exceptional dining experience. It was clear why Hiša Franko has earned its reputation as a top dining destination.

Modern Cuisine
Slovenian
10 / 10