Syttende, which opened in 2019 and fully booked since then, is located on the 17th floor of the highest building in Sønderborg. How Danfoss, the company behind this development managed to get an exception to the regulation that no building should be taller than the Church is unclear to me. Maybe their offer to create a public platform on the 16th floor might have helped. Anyway, the building in itself is a technical marvel that set a new standard for energy-efficient building operation. It is also a hotel with wonderful rooms opening up to a magnificent view over the ocean and the adjacent city. The restaurant is very elegant and of course has the best view sitting on top of the building.
The food is inspired by the region, South Jutland, but the restaurant does not follow a local dogma like so many others. They are happy to source the best ingredients from wherever they can get them.
The meal actually starts in the lobby of the hotel, as one needs to be accompanied by a waiter to get to the 17th floor. It is actually quite fun, to be picked up, escorted to the elevator and then fed while you glide up to the top floor. There it opens into the spacious dining room with a private room attached to it.
Once settled the kitchen starts sending out snacks which gradually morph into the main dishes. Every dish is carefully designed and the flavors very well calibrated. The execution is flawless.
There were clear highlights. The Kohlrabi & Kefir, a dish which does not sound special, but really tastes good. The kohlrabi lends texture and acidity, while the kefir balances the whole dish. The pairing of a scallop, barely cooked, with hazelnut is well used, but in this case very well done. The veal with truffle, the veal cooked pink with a layer of Australian summer truffle proved to be a great ending of the savory dishes. However, the first dessert was a transition, kiwi and patak pepper, very tasty.
The wine list is deep and international. This is a new restaurant in Denmark, so not many bargains on it, but still quite impressive. The sommelier was challenged to bring something which is new, interesting and affordable and met this challenge with bravour.
This place is cooking well at a 2 star Guide Michelin level and I would not be surprised if it gets elevated next year after a mandatory waiting period. It is already hard to book now and will most likely become impossible to book once the food caravan starts going there.
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