Dinner at Tate

Dinner at Tate

at Tate on 6 December 2019
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Vicky Lau was not always a cook, in fact she first studied Graphic Design at NYU in New York City. And it shows. For example the passion for every single detail in the dining room. The decor, the shadow the mirror plate throws to the wall when a dish gets served, the Chinoiserie trolly for mignardises surprise, nothing has been left to chance, everything is completely thought out and finished. Stunning.

The same applies to her dishes, each plating produces a piece of art the way the components are deliberately but seemingly randomly positioned. Her technique is classic French but she manages to pair it with Chinese tradition. Not being a dogmatic locavore she sources here excellent ingredients from wherever she finds them and weaves them together into well calibrated layers of flavours. Together with her flawless execution this creates not only dishes of beauty but very special flavours. I personally loved the seaweed jelly and the abalone, dishes which are easy to screw up but in this case were presented prefectly. The Kimedai, finished to perfection with glassy flakes, in grenobloise sauce where the lemons were exchanged with aged kumquat, a dish a harmonious dish.

A wonderful meal in an artsy environment which certainly enhances the environment, but give me Vicky Lau’s food on a plastic table sitting on an empty beer case I will love it as much as I did in her beautiful dining room.

French Chinese
7 / 10