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I visited Jade Dragon in 2018 when Executive Chef Kelvin Au Yeung had just taken over from his predecessor. While the meal was good, I found the east/west approach to presentation and plating slightly disconcerting.

But when I returned for lunch recently, I was blown away by the deft confidence of Chef Kelvin’s Cantonese cooking. What a difference five years makes! He seems to have mastered the art of “less is more”, and zeroed in on quality of ingredient and subtlety of technique. A bite of his braised abalone enveloped with puff pastry immediately reveals hard-won skill, in that the pastry remains crisp and crusty even while the abalone is moist and juicy.

I was also impressed with how Chef Kelvin took pains to go to the wet market in the early morning for the freshest finds, such as the threadfin for our meal. All I can say is that he richly deserves the 3 Michelin stars on his cap.

P.S. I couldn’t help insisting on a humble bowl of charsiew rice with sunny-side up at the last minute. So comforting and so satisfying!
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