The most captivating aspect of our first taste of @___omos was neither the setting nor what was served: It was a table within earshot conversing entirely as Gaeilge.
It couldn’t be more fitting — chef/owner @cuangreene, a Gaeilgeoir himself, is passionate about the Irish language and heritage, and has named his restaurant in Irish, meaning homage or dutiful respect
It’s a surprise to him, too, he tells us later: this is the first Irish speaking table he has served since opening a few weeks previous, and surprisingly they are not from Muscraí, Gaoth Dobhair or Conamara, but Laois locals, two generations together, enjoying a sublime lunch, celebrating local, foraged and wild Irish flavours, in their native tongue. The most unexpected and special moment to experience, and feels rightfully reflective of the unqiue, visionary space Ómós has become
This week’s Sunday Times Ireland restaurant review is Ireland’s most anticipated opening of 2026, and while the flavours are phenomenal, the space exceptionally considered and we enjoyed the years-long build-up and tease, we find a surprising lack of storytelling at the table and a menu that challenges rather than crowd pleases
Read the full review in print today or on thetimes.com website or app 🗞️
