Dinner at Akanezaka Onuma (茜坂大沼)

Dinner at Akanezaka Onuma (茜坂大沼)

at Akanezaka Onuma (茜坂大沼) on 16 May 2026
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Akanezaka Onuma, a Japanese restaurant located in Akasaka, has been selected by Michelin for 2026 and has received Tabelog BRONZE in 2026 as well as being listed among Tabelog's top 100 restaurants in 2025. The owner, Mr. Onuma, honed his skills at prestigious establishments such as "Tokyo Kichijo" and "Japanese Cuisine Matsushita" before opening his own restaurant in 2020. The name "Akanezaka" is derived from an old place name in Akasaka. During my visit for lunch, I chose the course priced at JPY 14,300. The restaurant offers a serene and elegant atmosphere that allows you to forget the hustle and bustle of the city. They waste no ingredients; for instance, the kombu soy sauce served with the sashimi is made from kombu that has been reused after making dashi, reflecting a deep respect for the ingredients. The dishes and sake cups are antique pieces personally collected by the owner, enhancing both the taste and beauty of the cuisine.A key aspect of this restaurant is its use of ingredients from Yamagata, which is the owner's roots. Mr. Onuma grew up eating vegetables harvested from his family's home in Yamagata. He dreams of one day serving dishes made with the vegetables his parents cultivated, and this dream has come to fruition at this restaurant. Seasonal wild vegetables and natural produce sent directly from Yamagata are beautifully incorporated throughout the course. A standout dish of the season is the fried tofu infused with local Yamagata butterbur. The slightly bitter aroma of the butterbur wafts up from the freshly fried tofu, delivering the essence of the season from his hometown in every bite. This dish encapsulates the spirit of spring in a single serving.The meal concludes with the restaurant's signature clay pot rice. On this day, it featured firefly squid and wild vegetables, with the fragrant dashi aroma and the umami of seasonal ingredients concentrated in each grain. The rich flavor of the firefly squid's innards melds with the slight bitterness and fragrance of the wild vegetables, creating a bowl that embodies the essence of spring.While grounded in the authentic techniques honed at renowned establishments, Mr. Onuma's unwavering desire to serve the vegetables his parents grew shines through. The Yamagata butterbur and other dishes are directly connected to this origin. Cherishing the ingredients, reflecting the seasons, and presenting his hometown on a plate—this is a restaurant that combines traditional authenticity with the story of its creator, making it a distinguished establishment in Akasaka.

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