CUCCAGNA (Haruyoshi)CUCCAGNA is a members-only Italian restaurant located in Haruyoshi, Fukuoka. Owned and operated by Chef Ogata, who opened the restaurant independently in 2015 and transitioned to a membership model in 2020, it features only 10 counter seats, creating a hidden gem atmosphere. This visit marked my long-awaited return.Currently, there is only one course available, showcasing the main ingredients of the day displayed at the counter, allowing the ingredients themselves to narrate the menu. The chef’s omakase is served one dish at a time in a quiet manner.The meal began with live-sliced prosciutto, where the chef skillfully shaved the meat right in front of us. The freshly sliced prosciutto layered over Italian melon was a delightful introduction, allowing us to enjoy its aroma and melt-in-your-mouth texture.Next was the ayu (sweetfish) pasta fritters, which involved filleting the fish, reconstructing the flesh and innards into a paste, wrapping it in pasta dough, and frying it to a crisp. This dish cleverly combined a casual way of eating with meticulous preparation, capturing the essence of ayu’s flavor.The specialty dish, Caprese with Tokutani tomatoes, featured a combination of burrata from Puglia and homemade focaccia, showcasing the quality of the ingredients and the thoughtfulness behind the presentation.Following that was the carpaccio of Onikozue from Nagasaki, which displayed the beautiful transparency of the white fish, enhanced by the roasted liver's aroma and the saltiness of Italian Oscietra caviar.The most memorable dish this time was the new creation featuring hamo (pike eel). I was amazed by Chef Ogata's ability to fillet hamo, a skill not commonly associated with Italian chefs. More than that, I was moved by the story behind this dish. Inspired by a memory of hamo he tasted at a renowned restaurant in Shiga, he developed this cooking method. The hamo was lightly cooked and served on a bed of potato purée and girolle mushrooms, with the aroma of browned butter and a striking acidity, complemented by the rich fragrance of summer truffles. This dish transcended the boundaries of Japanese and Italian cuisine, with the tender hamo harmonizing beautifully with the acidity, embodying the chef's concept of "evolution."For the main course, the Shin-gyo beef top sirloin was a standout, with the chef personally vouching for its exceptional quality. The balance of rich red meat flavor and fat was remarkable.The Hokkaido red sea urchin spaghetti aglio e olio astonished me with its richness, achieved without the use of cream, and the attention to detail was evident even in the accompanying Tokutani tomato arrabbiata.To conclude, we enjoyed mango and passion fruit gelato, followed by Basque cheesecake with coffee.By consolidating the course offerings into one, the restaurant has expanded its range of expressions, which may have contributed to the emergence of innovative dishes like the new hamo creation. It’s clear that the style the chef originally envisioned is gradually taking shape. The high level of culinary execution, along with the thoughtful touches for regular customers, such as the surprise plate for a couple celebrating their one-and-a-half-year anniversary, reaffirmed that CUCCAGNA maximizes the intimate setting of its 10 counter seats. With each visit, the ingredients change, and the chef continues to evolve—this is precisely why I find myself wanting to return time and again.